因為「野生」的緣故：香格里拉松茸的邊界互動、廣東市場與野生敘事

Abstract

本論文圍繞著作為一種國際貿易商品但在中國廣東市場逐漸變得受歡迎的蘑菇：松茸展開，以中國雲南香格里拉的松茸作為研究對象，香格里拉也是全球松茸的重要產地之一。過去，國際市場中的松茸以流向日本市場為主，全球許多松茸採集地的發展也源自日本市場的需求，而這一個跨越數國的松茸市場也處於迅速變動中，採集地地方市場的拓展，新的市場的出現，再加上 2020 年 COVID-19 對國際市場造成的衝擊，香格里拉松茸面臨什麼新的變化？廣東市場是香格里拉松茸新的去向，截然不同與日本市場的廣東飲食文化如何影響了這個市場，在此之上，人們與松茸產生了何種新的關聯？ 最初興起於日本的松茸隨着國際商品鏈條的拓展在全球聞名，而在地方的尺度上，與不同區域相接的松茸市場有其自身的變化，這種變化關聯採集與消費，由此，我以多點民族誌的方式跨越香格里拉松茸的生產端與消費端，在雲南香格里拉，松茸是一種以藏族人為主的在地人重要的經濟採集物，我關注藏族採集者在邊界交錯的松茸森林中如何建構松茸「邊界物種」的角色的同時受松茸左右，獨特的高原地理環境和藏人族社會歷史脈絡，還有松茸作爲非人物種的行動者也在其中具有能動性，給予香格里拉的松茸森林獨特的松茸採集經驗，同時也為廣東市場對香格里拉松茸的野生敘事提供了條件。在廣東廣州，松茸作為一種野生蘑菇嵌入地方飲食文化中，與日本市場不同的是廣東市場強調了松茸的野生屬性，並通過研究地方野生食品市場和信息傳遞的場域，進一步闡述在廣東市場中具備商業價值和文化意涵的「野生」是如何被識別、描述與理解。我再以網路市場的觀察和觀光導向的採集活動將香格里拉和廣東市場再次並置，兩者都揭示了人和松茸在不同場域中所呈現出的多樣化的關係。

This study focuses on matsutake, an international commodity that has recently been popular in Guangdong, China, and I studied matsutake from Shangri-La, Yunnan, China, one of the key matsutake-producing regions in the world. In the past, the international matsutake market was primarily directed toward Japan, and many matsutake harvesting regions around the world were driven by Japanese demand. However, this transnational matsutake market is now experiencing rapid shifts, including the expansion of local markets in harvesting regions, the emergence of new markets, and the impact of COVID-19 on international trade in 2020. The Guangdong market has become a new destination for matsutake from Shangri-La. How does the distinctly different culinary culture of Guangdong influence the matsutake market? Furthermore, what new relationships are people forming with matsutake in this context? Initially spread from Japan, matsutake became popular globally through the expansion of international commodity chains. However, on a local level, the matsutake markets in various regions demonstrate their own unique dynamics, linking the processes of harvesting to consumption. I use Multi-Sited Ethnography to connect the production and consumption ends of Shangri-La’s matsutake trade. In Shangri-La, matsutake is an important economic harvest mushroom for the Tibetan harvesters. I tried to clarify how Tibetan harvesters construct the role of matsutake as a “boundary species” while also being influenced by this species. The unique plateau geography, Tibetan social and historical context, and the agency of matsutake as a non-human actor contribute to distinctive harvesting experiences in Shangri-La’s matsutake forests. This also shapes the wild narratives of matsutake in the Guangdong. In Canton, matsutake as a wild edible mushroom, are embedded in the local culinary culture. By studying local wild food markets and the domains of information transmission, I explain how to is identify, describe, and understand “wildness” in the Guangdong market. Finally, I discuss online market and tourism-driven harvesting activities, I find the diverse relationships between humans and matsutake across different contexts.