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標題: | 港式台風:茶餐廳在台灣的形塑與變身 Constructing “Hong Kong” cuisine in Taiwan: a study of Hong Kong immigrants’ food journey |
作者: | 練暐妍 Wai-In Lin |
指導教授: | 童元昭 Yuan-chao Tung |
關鍵字: | 香港,移民,茶餐廳, cha caan teng,HongKong,immigrants, |
出版年 : | 2024 |
學位: | 碩士 |
摘要: | 「港式」在台灣泛指如飲茶、茶餐廳等香港飲食,當下在台灣的飲食景觀中並不罕見。不過,就飲茶和茶餐廳在台灣被視為一樣的餐食為例,可見台灣的「港式」與港人所認知的「港式」不盡相同。就此,本文以茶餐廳和2019年後的在台香港餐廳為例,探討「港式」被建構的過程。
相對於過去以全球化、在地化、身份認同來討論香港飲食,或是以歷史脈絡來解釋「港式」在台灣出現的緣由。本文認為「香港飲食」不單單是時空脈絡下的產物,相對而言,「港式」在台灣是透過不同的行動者,特別是香港的移居者不斷實踐而形成的。港人移民透過器材、食材追求香港味道,並在台灣社會的凝視下,鬆動原本的香港飲食框架。進一步而言,食物與餐廳成為載體,讓「港式」在當代脈絡下增添了情感的意味。「港式」在台灣的形塑與變身,使其在形式、外貌上不同於香港,卻透過移居者的意象,一再賦予「港式」靈魂與意義,使其以被論述、流傳,以至成形。簡言之,從港人移民在異地建構「港式」的過程中,不論是製作食物、佈置餐廳還是在其中吃飯,在「吃」以外,移居者同時嘗試描繪、實踐自我理想中的「香港」生活。 "Hong Kong-style "(港式)(in Taiwan generally refers to Hong Kong cuisine such as ‘yum-cha/dim sum’(飲茶點心) and ‘cha caan tengs’ (茶餐廳), which are not uncommon in the Taiwan foodscape. However, both of these restaurants are being viewed as the same type of cuisine in Taiwan. In other words, Taiwanese perception of "Hong Kong-style" differs from that of the people in Hong Kong. This article takes ‘cha caan tengs’ and some other ‘HongKong-style’eating places as expamle to explore the construction process of "Hong Kong-style." In contrast to past discussions on Hong Kong cuisine in terms of globalization, localization, and identity, or explaining the reasons for the appearance of "Hong Kong-style" in Taiwan through historical context, this article argues that "Hong Kong cuisine" is not merely a product of historical, political or economic influence.Instead, "Hong Kong-style" in Taiwan is formed through the continuous practices of different actors, especially Hong Kong immigrants. Through the pursuit of Hong Kong flavors using equipment and ingredients, immigrants loosen the framework of traditional Hong Kong cuisine under the gaze of Taiwanese society. In short, in the process of Hong Kong immigrants constructing "Hong Kongstyle" in a foreign land, whether in food preparation, restaurant decoration, or dining, beyond just eating, immigrants simultaneously attempt to depict and practice their ideal "Hong Kong" lifestyle. |
URI: | http://tdr.lib.ntu.edu.tw/jspui/handle/123456789/92191 |
DOI: | 10.6342/NTU202400598 |
全文授權: | 未授權 |
顯示於系所單位: | 人類學系 |
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