從越南到台灣：移民飲食植物的社會生命史

Abstract

在越南的生活中蔬菜與香菜扮演很重要的角色，但是如此日常的飲食在台灣並不常被注意到。此研究針對在台灣的越南移民，希望在研究的過程中理解，食用植物如何在他們的異地生活中扮演重要的角色，特別針對食用蔬菜與香菜等類群，完整紀錄。與在本研究在越南市場與餐廳中所記錄之蔬菜與香菜比較，並理解他們如何在這些植物中做選擇。接著從這些飲食植物的社會生命史出發，試圖描繪從種植、販賣到烹調，這些複雜的實踐過程。最後把移民的飲食生活放近來一起討論，試圖理解這樣移民的脈絡下，蔬菜與香菜的複合體有何種意義。 本研究發現多數在越南能夠看到的蔬果，幾乎都能在台灣被發現。而牽涉決定哪些植物移動的原因，包含植物本身的栽培條件、類別，台灣本地能夠取得的類別，不同的植物對於越南人而言不同的飲食經驗，與在台灣特殊的越南移民社群網絡。並透過進一步訪談與參與式觀察，了解蔬果從種植、販賣、烹調、共食在台灣被重新實踐的過程。透過在兩地的田野調查，蔬菜與香菜這樣食用植物實踐在台灣不僅僅是保留來自家鄉越南的元素，在移民的的過程中，越南各地的差異經過溝通整合，並且與其他東南亞文化被放在同一個概念下裡進行交流。當然也與台灣本地產生關係。最後透過這些蔬菜、香菜與水果，與其背後的日常實踐，更完整的在異地再現與重整家鄉的實踐模式，重新連結家鄉，並與台灣本地甚至其他面向產生更多連結的可能。

In pace globalization, there are more and more immigration and emigration carrying on. Migrants go back and forth between their homelands and resettlement destination. As an example, there are many Vietnamese went to Taiwan for various reasons and with them the Vietnamese cuisine as well, like “phở” or spring rolls. In addition to the well-known Vietnamese cuisines, herbs and vegetables on daily dining tables also hinted the needs and uses for the usually neglected components in their living. Through a Vietnamese social network in Taiwan, these plants were reintroduced to Taiwan and circulated among the Vietnamese communities. In this study, Vietnamese herbs, vegetables and fruits were documented in Taiwan, and the representation of practice about food plants in daily lives was examined. Furthermore, this study intended to reveal how Vietnamese migrants accommodated their eating habits during their stay in Taiwan. Consistent styles of practices were retained in many cases, while there are several differences of herbs and vegetable used among the Vietnamese people. Besides, this study attempts to present the social life of these herbs and vegetables, from production to exchange and transaction. And under such migrant context, the meanings of these food plants may continue or change. In this study, the types of Vietnamese herbs and vegetables were documented and categorized, including some of which being re-introduced to Taiwan even though they are present in Taiwan. The results were also compared with the situation in Vietnam through interviews and a brief survey in northern Vietnam. Participant observations were conducted by joining the interviewees from farms, food stand vendors, and the customers, to understand the underlying meaning and the associated social network of utilizing Vietnamese herbs and vegetables. Through the fieldwork, we know that the practice of these green leaves is not only connected with their homeland but also influenced by multiple backgrounds. Different environment, other Southeast Asian migrants, and Taiwan local communities all can affect the changing and adapting of edible plant practice. We believe that the daily practices of these vegetables would provide a continuous re-connection to the homeland for the migrants; and in the meantime, create a new platform for the interactions with the mainstream communities in Taiwan.