漢代的衣冠禮俗

Abstract

中國自古有「衣冠古國」之稱，這一方面反映古人穿衣必佩戴相應之頭飾的習慣，另一方面也暗示以衣冠為核心的物質文化在中國社會中有重要的意義。為理解衣冠在古人生活中所扮演的角色及功能，筆者擬在既有的服飾考證與漢代禮俗史研究的基礎上，從當時人涉及衣服與冠帽的穿戴行為入手，嘗試捕捉、剖析其中所反映之心態與觀念，以呈現一動態的漢代衣冠禮俗。 由於衣服的範圍相當廣泛，本文前半部主要討論涉及「衣服」的禮俗內涵與思想意識。第一章說明衣服包覆身體的物質特性如何影響人們思考穿衣行為。基於衣服包覆身體的親密性，第二章環繞與衣服相關的禁忌，進一步分析古人穿戴行為背後的集體心態、信仰思想，及其觸及的群體秩序等議題。 本文後半部以衣服中最重要的「冠帽」為主題。第三章分析戴冠禮俗，旨在說明冠帽在漢代社會活動中可用以傳達的文化意義，如冠禮中的加冠可取得成人身分，免冠禮俗則透過剝除冠帽及其象徵的身分，來表示謝罪或免職。第四章考察古代的重冠思想，可知人們對戴冠行為的認識，可以連結至對秩序的想像，並因此發展出相應的時日信仰與禍福解釋。 本文認為，古代中國有一個伴隨著日常生活而與衣冠的物質特性緊密相扣的集體心態。這個集體心態既受到具體穿戴行為的影響，也反過來規範穿戴行為甚而是古人的思想意識。認識到衣冠在古代社會的重要性，具體的服飾考證與穿戴行為的文化史研究，實乃未來可以進一步探索的方向。

China has been known as “Ancient State of Clothing and Crown” (yiguan guguo) 衣冠古國 since the very past. On the one hand, this term attests to the custom that ancient Chinese people often, if not always, wore corresponding crown/hat as they dressed; on the other hand, this also implies that the material culture of clothing and crown had occupied a significant place in Chinese society. To understand the role and the function of clothing and crown in early Chinese daily life, this thesis, drawing on scholarships of textual studies on clothing as well as those of the history of Han Dynasty rituals and customs, intends to take contemporaries’ wearing cloth and crown as a departure, analyze the mentality and ideas behind the phenomenon, and offer a more vivid picture of rituals and customs of clothing and crown in Han China. The former part deals with both ritual-customs and thoughts that were in association with “clothing.” Chapter 1 aims to illustrate how the material feature of clothing’s being covering human body had influenced people’s consideration of wearing. Based on its intimacy, Chapter 2 surrounds taboos concerning clothing so as to analyze mentalities, beliefs, and collective orders behind the behavior of dressing. The latter part focuses on “crown/hat,” the most important element in the category of clothing. Chapter 3 aims to demonstrate the role and the function of crown/hat in Han society by analyzing rituals and customs associated with dressing them. Chapter 4 investigates the thought of cherishing crown in early China. It is shown that the cognition of crown was linked to the imagination of political and social order and thus developed into related beliefs in days and interpretations of welfare and disaster. It is believed that in early China there existed a collective mentality in the wake of the daily usages and understandings of clothing and crown. This mentality was conditioned by concrete behaviors of dressing in the first place, but thereafter the former had influenced and regulated the latter so as to affected contemporaries’ thoughts. With the significance of clothing and crown in mind, both textual studies and cultural history of clothing deserve further exploration.