種茶或營造自然：坪林文山包種茶業生產場域的象徵鬥爭

Abstract

本文以坪林的文山包種茶業生產場域為例，提出「自然營造」（nature making）概念，統括人與自然的關係性實作，並指出坪林當地從「隱性自然營造」（latent nature making）到「顯性自然營造」（manifest nature making）的歷史轉折過程。從對慣行茶農「種茶」之實作活動的考察，說明在坪林兼具水源與茶鄉的多重自然條件下，執行不同農法的茶農、在地行動者、農政機關及水源治理機關，在水源特定區、有機茶業等形塑場域的力量介入後，如何因應「顯性自然營造」的趨勢、秉持各異的實作習氣及利益，並通過不同的象徵鬥爭策略，在場域中搏取自身的正當性。 研究方法上，本文以針對慣行茶農的參與式觀察為主要軸線，旁及有機茶農、自然農法茶農及其他行動者的深度訪談，與政府治理層次的政策文本分析，試圖由茶園管理及社會交往兩大實作場域，探討茶業生產場域內部複雜行動者的習氣基礎，並在這些習氣的衝突中，展開象徵鬥爭的張力。本文將不同的自然營造實作特質，歸結出以「身體導向的作物中心論」及「保衛自然的生態中心論」為兩端點的光譜；再以日常社交、地方組織與技術官僚系統的互動，指出當地以禮物交換為原形的社交理法，實與經濟邏輯構成的科層體制相互扞格，形成象徵鬥爭的社會矛盾來源。最後則加入地方政府、農政及水源治理機關的實作，統整出「泛有機－慣行」、「茶鄉－水源」兩大象徵鬥爭張力，以及科層化、理性化及倫理化的策略選擇趨勢，最後則以笳籬為喻，嘗試提出種茶實作圖式的認識論，並描繪複數利益結構及實作組成的茶業生產場域動態。

Based on the field analysis of Wenshan-Pouchong Tea Production in Pinglin, I used the term “nature making” to include the relational practices between human and nature. Pinglin has its own multiple natural character, being a critical tea production place and a water resource suppling urban Taipei, which leaded to struggles defining and making “nature”. In this thesis, I pointed out the historical turn from “latent nature making” to “manifest nature making”. I firstly explored the practical experiences of conventional tea farmers, with the method of participle observation, further described the symbolic struggle between different actors in the field, on the base of diverse habitus and interests in growing tea and operating the social relationships. For those conventional tea farmers, making nature was only for growing tea. Therefore, their practices of tea farm management mainly focused on tea trees. The raise of “manifest nature making” could be divided into two factors: one being appointed into the Taipei reservoirs catchment conservation area, the power of natural governance, and on the other hand, the involvement of “pan-organic” tea production actors. They concerned the comprehensive natural environment as a whole, causing the main stress in the symbolic struggle. In conclusion, I mentioned two critical tensions of symbolic struggle in Pinglin, which are the stresses between “pan-organic—conventional” and “tea-village—water resource”, further pointed out three strategic trends—bureaucratization, rationalization and ethnicization. Finally, I tried to build the epistemology to the practical scheme of growing tea, and then describe the field dynamics of the tea production in Pinglin, operated through multiple interest structures and practices.