1993年至2013年柬埔寨國家機器與成衣業發展間關係研究

Abstract

1990年代初期，東亞新興工業化國家成衣製造商受到柬埔寨「廉價勞力」、「貨幣與美元掛鉤」、「獲得成衣進口國大量配額之潛力」、「相對完善的勞工保護制度」，以及「穩定的國家情勢」等等因素吸引，將柬埔寨作為第三波全球紡織與製衣價值鏈轉換的轉移地，陸續於柬埔寨設立工廠，大量外國投資帶動成衣產業的蓬勃發展。成衣製品為柬埔寨主要的出口產品之一，其出口值佔國家總出口值的70%以上，出口成衣產品超過80%銷往歐美市場，創造出170萬個以上的正式與非正式工作機會。目前於柬埔寨運作的成衣公司中，有超過90%為外國籍的成衣製造商/供應商，這些外國籍公司受限於勞動力素質，僅於柬埔寨進行簡單來料加工，柬埔寨難以藉由外資投入獲得生產知識與技術的轉移。 本研究發現，柬埔寨成衣產業中存在包含製造商/供應商、勞工以及國際買家/採購商等重要的利益關係者，這些利益關係者間呈現一種製造商/供應商需獲得國際買家/採購商訂單，勞工需要獲得製造商/供應商提供工作機會，而國際買家/採購商則重視成衣廠工作環境以擺脫血汗工廠汙名的循環。這個循環加上紡織與製衣產業的買家導向價值鏈特性，造就利益關係者於產業中的上下權力關係，而這種權力關係直接影響了柬埔寨政府的產業政策方向，正由於成衣產業政策多是為了滿足重要利益關係者的需求，國家於成衣產業發展中扮演著「成衣利益關係者競爭網絡下妥協者」的角色。總結來說，柬埔寨成衣產業雖為帶動經濟發展的主要部門，然而當前高度依賴外國投資，以及產品多數出口至歐美市場的發展模式，不僅使成衣產業易因國際波動而出現起伏，國家以製造商/供應商、國際買家/採購商意見為政策主軸的作法，亦限制政府主導產業發展方向的可能。

In 1990's, newly industrialized countries from East Asia were attracted by cheap labours, peg-against-dollar system, better market access to garment-imported countries, labour regulation as well as increasing stability of political system, and selected Cambodia as their destination in the third production migration of textile and apparel industry. Since then, abundant foreign investment has brought momentum into Cambodia's garment sector and made it the leading sector of all export-oriented industries. Garment products represent more than 70% of the total exports, and 80% of the garment exports are going to Western markets. It has created more than 1.7 millions direct and indirect job opportunities. It's worth noting that more than 90% operating manufacturers in Cambodia are foreign-owned, they chose to conduct CMT (cut make & trim) work due to poor quality of labour force which restricted Cambodia from absorbing new skills and technologies through these foreign investors. This research finds that there are some significant stakeholders involving in Cambodia's garment sector, which are manufacturers(mainly foreign-owned), international buyers, and local labours. The interaction among these stakeholders is under a loop-type relation: 1) manufacturers need orders from international buyers; 2) labours need work opportunities offered by manufacturers; 3) international buyers care about working condition issue to prevent from being called sweatshops. This loop-type relation reflects the hierarchical order of actors which influences state's attitude and policies used regarding garment sector. Cambodia's garment-related policies show that state is a 'soft-liner' under the competition networks among stakeholders. State has no power to decide the future direction of development, and all the policies are conducted to fulfill the needs of influential stakeholders. Garment sector is definitely the leading engine to economic prosperity in Cambodia, however, the over-dependence on foreign investment and western markets could make this sector sensitive to international fluctuation, and also limit the possibility for state from leading the direction of garment sector's future development.