『本朝食鑑』と江戸の食文化ーー動物性食材を中心に

Abstract

本論文旨在以江戶時代前期醫師人見必大所著之食物本草書《本朝食鑑》為核心文本，深入探討該書中關於「動物性食材」的記述，藉此闡明江戶時代食文化所呈現的「日本的特色（日本化）」及其形成脈絡與歷史意義。過往研究雖已在醫學、藥學及日中比較等面向取得成果，但對於該書的知識如何在近世日本的文化脈絡中被接受與轉化，尤其在動物性食材方面結合博物學視角的文化史考察仍有待開拓。

為此，本研究採用三種研究方法：一、文本分析，精讀《本朝食鑑》中禽、鱗介、獸畜、蛇蟲等各部的記述；二、比較分析，將其與中國《本草綱目》等文獻進行比對，釐清其繼承與發展；三、歷史文化脈絡分析，將文本置於江戶時代的宗教觀、社會結構、料理文化與食材取得等脈絡下進行考察。

本研究發現，《本朝食鑑》的知識體系呈現出鮮明的「日本化」特徵。首先，其動物性食材的收錄範圍與記述密度，如獸畜類極少而鱗介、禽鳥類則極為詳盡，忠實反映了日本在肉食禁忌下以魚鳥為主的飲食結構。其次，人見必大以其醫師的實證精神與經驗，對先行文獻提出批判性見解，並記錄了「藥喰」此一繞過禁忌的文化實踐，體現了日本社會在規範與實用間的雙重性。再者，書中對鯨魚利用的詳盡描寫、對各類食材調理加工技術的整理，以及依據禮儀、珍稀性與象徵性所建構的價值序列，均展現了迥異於中國的日本獨特食文化。

綜上所述，本論文論證《本朝食鑑》不止於中國本草學的繼承，更是一部透過編纂者之批判性視角，將知識與日本風土、社會、文化深度結合的獨創性著作。它不僅是江戶食文化研究的珍貴史料，其編纂本身即是元祿時期博物學精神與實證主義思潮在日本生根、轉化的重要體現。

This thesis examines the Honchō Shokkan (lit. A Mirror of Food in this Realm), a materia medica of food written by the early Edo-period physician Hitomi Hitsudai. By conducting a multifaceted analysis of its descriptions of animal-based ingredients, this study aims to elucidate the "Japanization" of food culture in the Edo period, clarifying its formation and historical significance. While previous scholarship has yielded results in medical, pharmaceutical, and Sino-Japanese comparative studies, there has been insufficient cultural-historical inquiry, particularly from a natural history perspective, into how the knowledge within this text was received and transformed within the cultural context of early modern Japan.

This research employs a tripartite methodology: (1) textual analysis of the sections on birds (禽), fish and shellfish (鱗介), beasts (獣畜), and snakes/insects (蛇虫); (2) comparative analysis with texts such as the Chinese Bencao Gangmu to identify inheritance and divergence; and (3) historical and cultural contextualization, situating the text within the religious views, social structures, culinary culture, and ingredient procurement practices of the Edo period.

The analysis reveals that the knowledge system of the Honchō Shokkan exhibits distinct characteristics of "Japanization." Structurally, it drastically reduces the number of beasts found in the Bencao Gangmu while greatly expanding the sections on fish and fowl, faithfully reflecting Japan's seafood-centric diet under meat-eating taboos. In terms of content, the text embodies a "dual structure" between normative ideals and practical application. For instance, while acknowledging social taboos by describing beef as a "defiled thing" (kegaremono), it also, from an empirical physician's standpoint, praises it as the "highest grade of livestock" and details its efficacy in the context of kusuri-gui ("medicinal eating"). Furthermore, its detailed descriptions of Japan's unique whaling culture, its systematic organization of processing techniques (e.g., dried fish, fermented sushi, kamaboko), and the author's critical re-evaluation of established theories (such as the nature of duck meat) based on personal experience, all demonstrate an originality rooted in Japanese locality and empiricism, not found in Chinese herbal food studies.

In conclusion, this thesis argues that the Honchō Shokkan is not a mere imitation of Chinese herbal food studies but a creative and original work that deeply integrates knowledge with Japanese climate, society, and culture through its author's critical perspective. It stands as an invaluable historical source for Edo food culture, and its compilation itself represents a significant example of the "Japanization" of the empirical and natural history-oriented intellectual trends of the Genroku era.