探討台灣紡織成衣業與品牌發展的關聯性 –以H公司對越南柬埔寨成衣廠為例

Abstract

紡織業在台灣經濟發展中站有舉足輕重的地位，不但是台灣外滙的重要來源，也是戰後經濟發展的根源。現在的大企業，在那個時代多是以紡織起家。然而隨著大環境變遷，勞動成本增加，勞力密集產業的國際競爭力大幅失去，其中成衣業首當其衝。成衣業成為紡織業出走的先鋒部隊，生產基地主要考量為工資、土地成本、原物料供應、在地產業的連結、運輸成本及關稅優惠等。除了站穩腳步之外，還要面對韓國、香港、中國等業者的競爭。 除了生產要素的考量，從經營管理模式取得優勢是另一個重點。本論文從資源基礎理論及策略性連結來探討台灣紡織成衣業與品牌發展的依存關係。從個案公司在2005年才加入成衣生產的競爭行列，一方面靈活地選擇及變更生產基地，降低成本之外，另一方面在產業網路中與品牌建立穩固的策略性聯結關係。利用品牌商的流行設計及行銷通路，公司除了滿足其需求之外，並從中逐步建立核心競爭能力，以品質及交貨的信賴度，及應付少量多樣訂單的特殊能力，與其他廠商區隔。這能隨環境需求及合作伙伴而調整的動態能力，進而讓依存關係進一步深化，形成專業的伙伴關係。 在策略定位清楚之後，公司進一步聚焦於此市場及產品定位，引進現代化技術提升競爭力。從公司組織架構、生產流程改變、自動生產設備及資訊化管理等，讓在與各世界品牌的合作過程所採用的生產及戰術，內化為公司長遠的制度及技術知識，逐步擴大為與更多品牌合作的競爭優勢，成為企業對企業的優勢品牌，朝向未來建立國際品牌奠定基石。 紡織成衣業只是台灣類似的艱困產業中的一個。每個產業都必須面對在代工生產到自創品牌的巨大鴻溝，雖然專業核心技術不同，但紡織成衣業的發展軌跡，或許可以提供類似產業的借鏡。

The textile industry plays a very important role in the economic development of Taiwan. It is not only an important source of foreign exchange earnings, but also gives impetus to the economic development of Taiwan after 1945. Most of today's well-known large enterprises were initially engaged in the textile industry during that period. With the changes in the overall economic situation and rise in labor costs, labor-intensive sectors have lost their international competitiveness significantly. The garment sector is the most obvious example. It has played a pioneering role in the relocation of the textile industry. To select appropriate target production bases, it is necessary to consider a variety of factors, including labor costs, land costs, raw material suppliers, connection with local industries, transport costs, and tariff preference. To acquire a firm foothold, the readymade clothing sector in Taiwan should also keep in mind competition from rivals in South Korea, Hong Kong, and mainland China. In addition to the factors of production, improving the management model is another critical means to gain competitive advantage. In light of the resource-based view and strategic connection, this paper explores the dependent relationship between the readymade sector in Taiwan and business development. The company in this case study did not set foot in the garment sector until 2005. It not only selects and relocates production bases flexibly to reduce costs, but also establishes a firm strategic connection with famous brands in the industrial network. Thanks to popular design and marketing channels available for brand customers, the company not only satisfies its production needs, but also acquires core competitiveness, gradually. The company has distinguished itself among numerous vendors due to high quality products, reliable delivery, and the special ability to fulfill small-volume and large-variety orders. Due to the dynamic ability to adjust its production to suit market demand and customer requests, the dependent relationship between the company and the brand’s customers has deepened further to form a professional partnership. After the strategic positioning is defined clearly, the company further focuses on the related markets and products, and introduces state-of-the-art technologies to boost its competitiveness. The company makes improvements in every aspect, for example, organizational restructuring, reengineering of production process, automation of production equipment, and informatized management. Further, the production technologies and strategies applied in the process of cooperation with various world-renowned brands have been internalized as its long-term operational approach and technical know-how. Through cooperation with more brands, the company has gradually gained competitive advantage and developed its own superior brand of B2B operations, laying a firm basis for creating an international brand. The garment sector is one of the straitened industrial sectors in Taiwan. Each industrial sector in Taiwan must envisage the great gap between the original equipment manufacturer and own branding and manufacturing modes. In spite of the differences in professional core technologies, the course of development of the garment sector may be of referential value to similar industrial sectors.