族群邊界與集體記憶：噶瑪蘭族立德部落的飲食研究

Abstract

本研究以噶瑪蘭族立德部落為研究對象，立德作為經過原住民族委員會唯二認定的噶瑪蘭族部落，在面對外界與鎂光燈下被認為保有正統噶瑪蘭族文化的新社部落所提出的質疑時，試圖探討立德噶瑪蘭族人如何有意識地透過飲食與口傳歷史作為載體，藉以明確劃分我群與他群的界線，實踐集體認同，宣稱自己的主體性與特殊性。 當代，立德噶瑪蘭人運用食物作為媒介記憶過去的歷史經驗。透過日常飲食的選擇、採集與製作，實踐對於噶瑪蘭的族群認同，劃分與他者的界線。本研究透過海祭、豐年祭以及母親節這三個祭典節日的案例中，分析族人如何在新興的社會組織中建構出屬於立德飲食文化的範疇，作為劃分我群與他群的邊界。在海祭、豐年祭與母親節這三個不同性質的祭典節日，部落族人面對不同的參與者，透過飲食呈現出不同的表述意義：在海祭時，部落族人強調立德部落具有噶瑪蘭文化與豐富海洋文化知識的特殊性；而在豐年祭中，則企圖建構屬於立德噶瑪蘭的集體記憶與認同；慶祝母親節時，婦女們藉由菜餚的準備與製作，進行噶瑪蘭飲食之正統性與特殊性的競爭，創造、強化個人與集體的記憶與噶瑪蘭族群認同。 本研究的結果，呈現出立德族人運用口傳故事與神話傳說來進行飲食實踐與集體記憶。族人運用各種飲食的選擇與處理方式，展現自己作為噶瑪蘭人的主體性。無論是日常生活或祭典節日，都呈現出立德噶瑪蘭人有意識地透過飲食來劃分族群邊界，實踐族群認同。

This study is focused on the food culture and collective identity of Kavalan community, Kudis. As Kudis was registered by the Indigenous Peoples Committee. They need to be recognized by other as a unity, particularly to be distinguished to those who have been well known in history and culture from Xinshe. When the Kudis people are facing doubts by the others, here I attempt to explore how the Kudis people consciously handle their food and memory oral history to manifest their singularity. And by doing so, they distinguish the boundary between Ingroup and outgroup, practice and identity in their food way. This study analyzes the rituals such as the sea festival, the harvest festival, and the Mother's Day, in which how the ethnic group constructs cultural category that belongs to the Kudis diet culture in the rising social organization, as the boundary between their group and other groups. The results of this study show that the Kudis people use oral stories and myths to conduct dietary practice and collective memory. They made various dietary choices and cooking dishes to show their subjectivity as Kavalan. Whether it is daily life or festivals, the Kudis people consciously distinguish ethnic boundaries through daily and practice their ethnic identity.