從Lativ移除產地標事件看MIT的未來

Abstract

二○一二年二月，以MIT商品走紅的台灣網購服飾品牌Lativ移除網頁上的產地標，引起了社會的關注與消費者的拒買聲浪。但該事件除了Lativ違背品牌承諾外，值得注意的是事件背後台灣成衣產業逐漸沒落的事實。本報導論文希望藉此機會討論製造於產業升級的必要性與MIT在成衣產業的意義，並深入了解台灣成衣產業的現況以及未來發展。 本篇報導首先回顧Lativ移除產地標事件所引起的爭議，並詳述台灣成衣產業的發展脈絡，從中了解台灣成衣產業不再適合大量生產，而代工製造的背景以及人才斷層也成為未來的轉型障礙。不過本報導也強調，未來若要產業升級或自創品牌，製造並非不重要，而是應建立試產能力與小量生產能力作為後盾，除了便利設計師的生產需求外，設計師也可以藉此精進自我技術與實戰經驗。紡拓會這幾年建立的西園29、台北服飾快速打樣中心、服飾試作工廠都是很好的轉型方向，但仍有極大的改善空間。台灣成衣產業未來也需要產官學的合作，一同思索解決方案。

In early February, 2012, Lativ, an online clothing brand having boasted of its MIT goods, removed the country of origin markon its shopping website. This change aroused heated controversy among consumers and the media. Both blamed Lativ for breaking it brand commitment. Many have claimedthat they refuseto purchase from Lativ. However, more attention should be paid to the fact behind the controversy: Taiwan’s garment and apparel industry has been declining for decades. Based on Lativ’s case, this report attempts to explore the possibility to reserve OEM in Taiwan, and the definition of the role of MIT in the industry,aiming to draw a possible future for Taiwan’s garment and apparel industry. This report first reconstructs Lativ’s case in 2012 and depicts the development of the garment and apparel industry in Taiwan. The reporter asserts that this industry should not insist on mass production anymore. Both OEM background and the shortage of talents in Taiwan have already hindered the upgrading of the industry. Instead, a transformation from traditional mass production to small quantity production and trail production is needed. Through these two measures, fashion designers can not only polish design techniques but also improve their innovation ability. Since 2011, Taiwan Textile Federation has established “Fashion Institute of Taipei,”“Design Atelier/ Apparel,” and “Apparel Pilot Workshop” for fashion designers and future upgrading; however, there are still rooms for improvement. The future of Taiwan’s garment and apparel industry relies on the cooperation of all related industries, governmentalbureaus, and academic researchers.