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標題: | 漸離全球生產網絡後?台灣本地成衣製造業的內需轉型及升降級 After Decoupling from the Global Production Networks? The Domestic Demand Transition and Up-/Downgrading of Taiwan's Local Garment Industry |
作者: | 楊朝強 Chao-Chiang Yang |
指導教授: | 陳良治 Liang-Chih Chen |
關鍵字: | 成衣業,台灣,產業升級,中小企業協力網絡,產業轉型, Garment industry,Taiwan,industrial upgrading,small and medium-sized enterprise network,industrial transformation, |
出版年 : | 2023 |
學位: | 碩士 |
摘要: | 在過去,台灣成衣業曾有過驚人成長。但步入近代,其產值卻急遽下降,因而收到不一的褒貶。本研究的目的,在於掌握台灣本地成衣業近代發展的細部樣貌,及其可能的升降級樣態。基於此目的,研究具體要回答幾個問題,分別是臺灣本地成衣業近代面對的產銷環境,因為什麼原因而發生了何種改變?同時,以本地成衣業者為核心,所組成的產銷網絡對此做出什麼回應?如何影響了本地成衣業者升降級的情形?
研究主要採質性方式進行,包含向業者進行半結構式訪談、次級資料蒐集,以及參與式觀察。研究發現,本地成衣業近代面對的生產環境,主要受勞動力供給因素影響,面臨了供應斷層出現,以及規模優勢減少;銷售環境受社會風氣及成衣市場全球化因素影響,時尚週期開始加速,並且有了生活化的訴求。鑑此,本地成衣網絡成員在生產方面,透過接受彼此初期合作的不完美,以及組織、串連起次級部門,來回應環境的轉變,成功使網絡保留了彈性生產能力。在銷售方面,本地成衣網絡則產生了分化的回應。以本地成衣業者為主的成員,未據環境改變做出積極的行動;以品牌商為主的成員,則為適應新的環境發展了相應的高階能力。因此整體而言,本地成衣業近代在高階能力的獲取有限,限制了產業的升級。儘管如此,台灣仍可以被作為成衣業創業或發展的基地。在理論層次,研究大致延續了後進國家成衣業文獻、台灣中小企業協力網絡研究、產業升級降級與技術能力獲取相關文獻的成果,但也有新的發現與著重,包含後進國家成衣業透過內銷市場升級的可能;成衣產業網絡成員自主發展的重要;以及實體互動對象徵知識生成的注重。 In the past, Taiwan's garment industry experienced remarkable growth. However, since the late 1980s, its production value has sharply declined. To gain an in-depth understanding of the recent development of Taiwan's local garment industry, along with its potential patterns of upgrading and downgrading, this research aims to answer several key questions: What changes occurred in the production and sales environment faced by the local garment industry in Taiwan, and what were the reasons behind these changes? How did the production and sales network, centered around local garment manufacturers, respond to these changes? How did this influence the upgrading and downgrading dynamics within the local garment industry? The research primarily adopts a qualitative approach, including semi-structured interviews with industry stakeholders, secondary data collection, and participant observation. The findings indicate that Taiwan’s local garment industry faced challenges in the production environment, primarily influenced by labor supply factors, resulting in a shortage of skilled labor and reduced economies of scale. In the sales environment, social trends and the globalization of the garment market accelerated the fashion cycle and led to a demand for lifestyle-oriented products. In response to these challenges, actors of Taiwan’s local garment network adapted by accepting imperfect initial collaborations and organizing and connecting the secondary sector, successfully maintaining flexible production capabilities. In the sales aspect, however, they had differentiated responses. Specifically, those actors primarily composed of local garment manufacturers were less proactive in adapting to environmental changes, while those dominated by brand owners developed corresponding high-level capabilities. Overall, the limited acquisition of high-level capabilities hindered the industry's upgrading. At the theoretical level, this research builds upon existing literature concerning the garment industry in latecomers, collaboration networks of Taiwanese SMEs, and industrial upgrading and downgrading and technology capability acquisition. It brings forth specific discoveries and emphasis, including the potential for the garment industry in latecomers to upgrade through exploring and exploiting domestic markets, the importance of actors’ independent development in local networks, and the significance of physical interactions in the generation of symbolic knowledge. |
URI: | http://tdr.lib.ntu.edu.tw/jspui/handle/123456789/88777 |
DOI: | 10.6342/NTU202302469 |
全文授權: | 同意授權(全球公開) |
顯示於系所單位: | 建築與城鄉研究所 |
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