台北市「潮流圈」的形塑與運作

Abstract

隨著經濟發展變遷，新的消費型態將重新體驗。過往的農業經濟、工業經濟、服務經濟的重心也轉變至今日的體驗經濟、文化經濟。各行各業漸漸體悟到除了產品和服務本身的品質，還必須加上「創意」與「美」的元素來經營，並且朝著體驗化與精緻化之路轉型。潮流文化產業在此時似乎走出自己一片天，在金融海嘯衝擊精品銷售時，卻逆勢竄起，在美、日、歐等全球主要奢侈品消費市場至少下滑一O%以上，潮牌卻不斷展店，並且活動不絕。潮流風格(trendy style)產業既為全球性流行風潮與消費風格化下順應而生，並塑造其特有生活態度明確訴求為主要經營理念，滿足消費者多元選擇與表達自我的需求。 本研究的目的，在於藉由Bourdieu的理論工具，來看待潮流圈的文化生產場域是如何開展，以及潮流圈的文化設計者的慣習與實踐、潮流產業運作的象徵鬥爭，以及產業創新的作為等問題。研究方法對於潮流設計者的社交生活進行田野訪查，透過實際觀察與深度訪談，以Pierre Bourdieu的概念工具，就台北市個案潮流設計者之慣習、場域實踐、象徵鬥爭加以分析。 研究發現，潮流源於美日外來街頭文化，西門町為台北市原創街頭潮流的起源，潮流圈場域的開展始於對於街頭文化喜愛的消費者，爾後亦表現自我，成為潮流圈的主理人，潮流圈是以主理人為中心的品牌操作模式，藉由主理人慣習與實踐影響品牌操作；開始是由原創街頭潮牌制定潮流圈的遊戲規則，主要是對於街頭文化精神的信仰以及建構於以朋友為根基的社交生活基礎。在潮流圈內分類與追求文化正當性時，在風格與運作面向產生象徵鬥爭；另新加入潮流圈的參與者，則也會透過創新的作為試圖改變既有遊戲規則，主要是與在地文化的應用進行老牌翻新以及透過藝術提昇價值。創新的作為亦產生象徵鬥爭，卻也造就潮流圈豐富多元的面貌。

With the changes of economic development, new consumption patterns will re-experience. The past of the agricultural economy, industrial economy, and service economy are also changing the focus to today's experience economy, culture economy. Apart from all walks of life have gradually realized that expect of the quality of products and services themselves, must be added the 'creative' and 'beauty' of the elements to run, and toward the road to transformation to experience and refinement. Trendy culture industry at this time seems to come out of their one day in the financial tsunami, the boutique sale, to buck the trend re-leased in the United States, Japan, Europe and other major global luxury market over at least drop a 1O%, Trendy brand has continued to add their stores, and activities are not absolute. Trendy style industry comes into being with both global pop culture and consumption styles, and shaping their unique attitude to life clear demand as the main business philosophy, with multiple choices to meet consumer demand for self-expression. The purpose of this study is that by Bourdieu's theory as a tool to look at the issues of how the trend of the circle of the field of cultural production field carry out, and the what the designers of trend circle’s habitus and how to practice, and the symbol of struggle against the trend of industrial operations, as well as industry Innovative approach. Research methods are visiting the current field of designer’s social life, and through actual observation and depth interviews, with Pierre Bourdieu's conceptual tools, to analyze the trendy designers’ habitus, field and practice, symbolic struggles on the cases of Taipei. The study found that the trend are from street culture of the U.S. and Japan. Ximending(西門町) is the origin of the original street fashion in Taipei. The field of trend circle began with consumers who favorite street culture, and later also to express themselves, to become the brand director of trend circle the trend circle. The trend circle’s operating mode is with the center of the brand director(主理人). The brand operations affect are from the habitus and practice of brand directors; the trend circle’s rules started from the original street style trendy brand, mainly for street culture and spiritual beliefs, and with the built on the foundation of a friend as a basis for social life. Trend circle in the current classification and the pursuit of cultural legitimacy, the symbolic struggles come with the style and operation; another trend circle of participants who joined with new, are also trying to change through innovation both as rules of the game, mainly with the application with ground culture to renovation of old, and through the arts to enhance the value. Innovation action also brings with symbolic struggles, but also created a rich and diverse face of trend circle.