烹飪文化資本、文化中介者與飲食品味塑造—以農會家政班為例

Abstract

摘要 人們在社會中養成的烹飪知識與技術，通稱烹飪文化資本（Culinary Cultural Capital），擁有不同的層次的特質與內涵，對我們的生活產生重要的影響。源於Bourdieu主張的「文化中介者」(Cultural Intermediaries)概念廣泛適用於烹飪相關的職業與工作，他們轉化斡旋社會上各種型態的文化資本，其中也包括地方農會家政班傳遞之烹飪文化資本。農會在過去食物資訊的傳遞機制中，是十分重要的傳播系統，其中的家政指導員更是傳遞烹飪文化資本的重要文化中介者。本研究首先以歷史資料為基礎，了解台灣社會中烹飪文化資本養成的歷史重心轉移。緊接著以台灣農會家政烹飪指導員為訪談對象，以質性訪談的方式進行調查，了解農會家政烹飪班其課程操作與內容，探討台灣社會中地方層次的文化中介者，如何篩選、傳遞烹飪知識與技巧，辨明發掘他們在烹飪文化資本養成與品味塑造模式中所扮演的重要性角色。 家庭、學校、政府、大眾傳播媒體與農會推廣系統，是台灣社會中烹飪文化資本養成的重要制度。在農會家政烹飪班的例子裡，具備完善設備的農會家政烹飪班以身體性實踐學習的「現場實際操作」模式為主要上課方式，這樣的學習模式與制度性學校教育以及烹飪證照制度密切相關。此類型農會較傾向配合參與政府推廣計劃，除了輔導證照取得外，更強調地方特產文化，透過競賽展現他們在推廣地方特產和傳遞烹飪文化資本上的成效，因而在地方烹飪文化資本的養成上具有主導地位。不具備完善設備的農會家政烹飪班根據其設備的完善程度調整上課模式，「現場觀摩」是最常使用的上課方式。此類型農會較偏重「新奇流行」的飲食體驗帶來的愉悅感，偏向傳遞「美學性」與「知識性」烹飪文化資本內容。而農會家政班之間也存有競爭性的層級關系，主導性強的農會家政班會影響其他農會家政班的開班內容。

Abstract Culinary cultural capital, which represents the cookery knowledge and skills that people have acquired in development of socialization, contains various levels of attribute and significance. Our daily life is influenced tremendously by it. Cultural intermediaries, which is the concept proposed by Pirrer Bourdieu, is widely applied to related professions. They mediate between of diverse types of cultural capital. Home economics improvement clubs is one of cultural intermediaries. Farmer’s association has been one major communication system of food communication. Therefore, home economics instructors in the association play an important role in transferring culinary cultural capital. Firstly, this study is based on historical data to introduce the diversion of development of culinary cultural capital in Taiwan society. Secondly, in order to know how cooking classes in farmers’ association work and the detail of the classes, qualitative interviews are conducted with home economics instructors. Through unveiling cultural intermediates’ knowledge and skill of selection and transferring culinary cultural capital in different levels in Taiwan society, we can discover the significant roles that instructors play in the formation of taste making and development of culinary cultural capital. Family, school, government, media and farmers’ association promotion system influence the formation of culinary cultural capital in Taiwan. In the case of local cooking classes of home economics improvement clubs, that are well equipped, practical cooking on-the-spot is the main module of lesson. Their module is closely related to the cooking license and the school system. These improvement clubs tend to join the food or profession promotion program advanced by different level of the government. Besides assist learners to acquire cooking licenses, joining these promotion projects also strengthen and develop local specialty food in many ways. Through contest, they show the accomplishment of promotion of local specialties and transfer of culinary cultural capital so as to take the lead of the development of local culinary cultural capital. In contrast, in those not well-equipped home economics improvement clubs cooking classes would adjust module of lesson according to their equipment. The most common way of lesson is learning cooking knowledge and skill by demonstration. These clubs prefer to let students enjoy tasting fashionable food and incline to pass aesthetics and knowledgeable culinary cultural capital to them. There is competitive and different-leveled relationship among all home economics improvement clubs. These dominant improvement clubs will affect the cooking class scheme of other ones.