植民地時代（1895∼1945）における台湾食文化の変遷 －日常生活の飲食衛生を中心に―

Abstract

本研究主為探討日本殖民地時代台灣飲食文化變遷的過程及台灣人和在台日本人之間的互動關係。研究主題分兩大方向：一是當時代台灣飲食文化變遷的觀察，二是其變遷對台日社會的影響。 本文所謂「飲食文化」，意指在日常生活中，人們經由制度性管道而得到的飲食經驗。本研究著重於從基礎文獻、法令政策的解讀，探討當時社會制度面對於飲食有何種規定，何種變遷？使人們得以有衛生觀念，實現近代化的飲食生活。 文化必因衝擊而改變？針對此問題，本文從以下四個角度探討:一、日本殖民初期，台灣的飲食文化為何；二、日本殖民政府對此制定了何種飲食生活規範；三、台灣民眾因此規範的改變又如何；四、在台日本人與台灣人的飲食生活之互動問題。 研究發現，殖民初期，台灣人對於飲食衛生並不重視。殖民政府為了改善此狀況，制定的一系列相關法律政策與厲行之衛生教育，不僅使得台灣患病及因病死亡的人數減少，更多方面影響了台灣人的生活。經濟上，因飲食環境、習慣以及衛生觀念的改變，提升了台灣人的生活水準，也進一步帶動台灣人開店數的成長以及日本觀光客的增加；文化上，伴隨飲食衛生條件的提升，台灣飲食文化漸漸地為在台日本人所接受，雙方社會也於往後產生一定程度的相互影響與交流，如家庭飲食習慣的改變、小吃攤的多樣化、日本食物的普及等。這些現象說明了日本殖民政府對於促進台灣飲食文化的衛生化、近代化有很深遠的影響，而雙方的飲食文化也確實產生了交集與交流。

The main purpose of this study is to explore the transition of Taiwanese dietary culture and the interaction between the Taiwanese and the Japanese during the Japanese Colonization. The study is mainly divided into two parts: One is the observation of the transition; the other is the impact of the transition on Taiwanese society. In this paper, “dietary culture” means the dietary experience people getting from having orderly daily lives. This study focuses on what social norms and rules made Taiwanese people come to a hygienic and modern dietary life. Must culture change from interaction? To the question, this study discusses from four perspectives: First, what was the Taiwanese dietary culture in the early colonial period? Second, what dietary norms did the Japanese colonial government establish due to the dietary culture? Third, what changes did Taiwanese people make due to the norms? Fourth, how has the dietary interaction between Taiwanese and the Japanese stayed in Taiwan? These are the key points of this study. The study discovered that Taiwanese did not attach importance to dietary hygiene in the early colonial period. In order to improve this situation, the colonial government developed a series of policies on hygienic education, and implemented them strictly. This not only reduced the number of illnesses and deaths, but also influenced the daily life of Taiwanese in many respects. Economically, the changes due to the dietary environment, habits, and awareness of hygiene improved the living standard of Taiwanese people. It also increased the number of restaurants run by Taiwanese and the number of Japanese tourist. Culturally, the improvement of dietary hygiene gradually led to the Japanese accepting Taiwanese dietary culture. Both sides also had a certain degree of influence and exchange. Changes in family dietary habits led to the diversification of food stalls and the popularity of Japanese food. These phenomena suggest that the Japanese colonial government did have a great influence on the hygiene and improvement of Taiwanese dietary culture, and that both sides had a certain degree of influence and exchange.