在那都要吃-泡麵、身體與飲食空間

Abstract

許多便利食物的研究將重心放在便利性對現代社會造成的影響。但僅從便利的層次討論泡麵，會無法理解做爲食物的獨特之處。透過深入訪談喜愛吃泡麵的受訪者，討論泡麵和日常生活飲食的社會關係之間的互動。並透過區分「垃圾」食物與「便利」食物二個部分討論其中的飲食經驗。 人透過次數、數量、頻率與烹調方式等應對，對物的意義進行轉換。除了向健康靠攏，也向邊陲的「不健康」發展，享受吃「垃圾食物」的快感.便利性並非單向切斷食物中的社會關係，而是提供人再組織飲食中的社會關係的可能，並幫助人重新掌握身體與食物的關係。 身體做爲經驗與行動的起源與依據，如想吃與吃什麼的慾望、動力、烹調技能等，也是社會作用的場域，包含健康的身體、烹調勞動的角色、習慣的口味。身體形成人和物互動的基礎，影響誰來烹調，如何烹調，是正餐或點心，吃的頻率，在那吃和誰吃等。吃「不健康」的快感改寫商品文化中建構的享樂方式。便利性提供回應在各種空間限制下依然能滿足身體飲食需求的可能，在食物選擇權力受到限制的情況中，吃「不一樣」的食物成爲抵抗與重拾快感的方式。在移動的經驗中，習慣的口味重新連結人與地方的情感。只有理解食物選擇中的意義，才能進一步理解爲何及如何改變食物與人的關係。

Many studies of convenience food focus on the impact of its convenience on modern society. However, we cannot fully understand the uniqueness of instant noodles as foods if our discussions are constrained on the level of convenience. In this research, in-depth interviews with people who love instant noodles were used to explore the interrelations between instant noodles and social relations in daily diet. I proposed the distinction of junk food with convenience food and discussed the vacillation between taste and health in the experience of consuming instant noodles. It is found that people regulate the number of times, amount, frequency and cooking methods of food to transform the meaning of instant noodles. They not only concern and pursue health but also enjoy the pleasure of eating 'junk food.' The convenience of instant noodles provides people with the possibility of reorganizing soci.al relations in eating. In addition, it helps them to regain control of the relationship between body and food. Body, as the origin and basis of experience and action, such as the desire to eat, what to eat, and cooking skills, is also the field of social forces which include the ideology of healthy body, the social role of cooking labor, and eating habits, and specific tastes. Body forms the basis of the interaction of people and food which decide who is the cook, how to cook, the definition of a meal or snack, the frequency of eating, where to eat and with whom. Eating 'unhealthy' foods rewrites the meaning of pleasure constructed by commodity culture. With the premise of meeting the physical needs, the convenience brought about all the possibility to respond to the limitations of space. When Food choices under restricted by system, eating the 'different' food becomes a way of resistance and regaining pleasure. In mobile experiences, the familiar taste reconnect people with senses of place. Only by understanding the significance of choice, can we really understand the relations of people and food and find way to change them.