節慶食物的分化與轉型：以臺灣粽子的發展為例

Abstract

傳統節慶活動中，應景食物扮演著相當重要的角色。臺灣在逐步轉變成為現代消費社會的過程中，伴隨著傳統節慶其家庭儀式作用的式微，節慶食物的生產與消費方式產生了巨大的變化。本研究以粽子為例，探討粽子在臺灣1951年到2014年之間的轉型與分化過程。在消費文化經濟學理論架構的引導下，透過主要報紙歷年對於粽子相關報導的內容分析以及對石門農會其粽子生產現場的參與觀察，試圖描繪粽子在臺灣近幾六十年來所展現之社會意涵的軌跡與變化。 研究結果顯示，1990年代前後，生產粽子的主要行動者出現了變化，原本由家庭包製並分享的粽子，漸漸轉由食品業者提供。在時間點上，粽子漸漸不再只是端午節前後才密集出現的應景食物，而成為時時刻刻都能品味的小點心。冷藏和流通等食品工業化的發展以及現代零售商業體系的快速擴張與全面深化，是促成粽子生產和消費轉型的重大關鍵。於此同時，商品化的邏輯讓粽子出現了分化的現象，新形態粽子在食品工業化的基礎上不斷被創發出來。而這個建構「傳統」食品的過程，涉入意義賦予競逐的政治經濟學，「客家粽」便是其中一個顯著的例子。綜觀而言，粽子的意義在不同的時間與空間，被不同群體所協商、爭執與建構，進而譜出了其在臺灣的社會生命軌跡。

Festival foods play an important role in traditional festivals. During the transformation to a modern consumer society in Taiwan, as traditional festivals and family ceremonies are fading away, the way of production and consumption of festival foods changed dramatically. We use Zongzi(sticky rice dumplings) as case in this study in order to explore the differentiation and transformation of Zongzi during 1951 to 2014 in Taiwan. Instructed by the framework of consumer cultural economy, through relevant reports of Zongzi with qualitative content analysis and the production site of Zongzi in Shihmen Farmers’ Association with participant observation, we try to depict the trajectories and changes of the social implications of Zongzi in Taiwan in recent 60 years. Our results showed that, around 1990s, the dominant producers of Zongzi have gradually changed from family to food industry. In the past, Zongzi traditionally emerged only in Dwanwu Festival, but now it becomes a dessert in everyday life. The development of food industrialization, such as refrigeration and distribution, and the rapid expansion and deepening strength of the modern retailing system, are two major keys to facilitate the transformation of production and consumption of Zongzi. Meanwhile, the logic of commercialization makes Zongzi more and more differential than before. On the basis of food industrialization, new forms of Zongzi continue to be created. This process of constructing the “traditional” food is a competition of meaning endowed in political economy; “Hakka Zongzi” is one notable example. These above showed that under the negotiation, conflict and construction of various communities, the meaning of Zongzi has delineated the track of its social life.