戰前臺人日常生活裡「外食」與「內食」

Abstract

本論文主題主要發想自作者長輩的幼年時代，生活於戰後早期臺灣的飲食生命經驗。眾所周知，當前臺灣是一個以「美食」而聞名國際的國家，而說到臺灣的美食，則就不能不關注在當代臺灣人日常生活裡佔有重要地位的「外食」文化。然而本論文作者也發現，儘管遍布三餐的「外食」活動，在臺灣人的飲食經驗裡顯得如此不可或缺，但是在早期的臺灣社會，「外食」對於作者長輩一代的童年記憶來說，卻反而是生活裡較為稀罕的一種飲食消費方式，相反地，與「外食」相對的「內食」活動，也就是「在家自炊／吃飯」，則顯得十分稀鬆平常，人們在三餐時間選擇回家與家人同桌共食，而不選擇購買「外食」來食用，反而才是早期臺灣人的飲食常態。 因此本論文主要研究目的，在於研究早期臺灣「內食」與「外食」活動在日常飲食生活裡的表現，而本文所聚焦的討論對象，為做為日常具有維生性功能的「正餐」，而非點心或宴飲等非日常飲食的「外食」與「內食」表現，並藉此希望觀察「外食」在早期臺灣以「內食」為主的社會中，出現甚麼樣的發展與擴張。為了追本溯源，本文作者選擇先以戰前臺灣作為所謂「早期臺灣」的研究主軸，透過清季臺灣方志、日治報章雜誌、日記等文獻材料，觀察戰前臺灣人在「內食」及「外食」選擇上的態度，以及同時期具有維生性目的的「外食」產業樣貌。 本論文從第二章開始，首先討論日治以前清季臺灣的「外食」與「內食」消費情況，主要代表形式為「飯店」以及「小食攤」（點心攤），然而這些外食的消費者大多為集中在河港市街的苦力階層，同時期的上流仕紳與農村住民則少有消費的情況，乃一個「內食社會」；而「外食」可以為每日消耗大量體力的市街勞工提供農村生活少見的米飯和肉類，也可謂勞工的「綠洲」。第三章以後，作者則討論進入日治時代後來台日本人所影響的逸樂性外食消費風潮。日治初期來台的日人大多為軍公及投機人士，傾向於花費大量金錢在與聲色場所合流的逸樂性外食之上；日治中期後，來臺日人的成分漸趨穩定，明治維新以後出現在日本各大城市的「食堂」設施，也逐漸進入臺灣，成為日、臺都市發展與經濟蕭條下，平民賴以果腹的新式外食餐飲場所，主要消費者也不再只是苦力等傳統勞動者，而是都市中的新型勞工——白領階級，以及新式教育的學生族群。最後第四章則以日記、回憶錄等材料為主軸，觀察日治中期臺灣新知識分子家庭對於「外食」與「內食」的消費態度，從中可以發現，直到1930年代，儘管外食消費已然逐漸在台灣城市生活中展露頭角，但是對為數不少的臺灣中上家庭而言，「內食」依然是日常餐飲的首要選擇，「外食」則更像是家庭中的男性父兄用以展現飲食權威的活動。整體而言，戰前臺灣依舊是一個濃厚「內食社會」。

This paper was inspired by the dietary life experience of Taiwanese people in the early years after World War II. It is widely acknowledged that Taiwan is a country famous for delicacies; particularly, the eat-out culture plays a crucial role in the daily life of Taiwanese people today. Eat-out activities play an indispensable part of the dietary experience of Taiwanese people. However, such dietary activities were rarely seen in the childhood of the Taiwanese people who grew up in the early years after World War II; by contrast, eat-home activities, which refer to eating meals at home, were commonplace during that era. Most people preferred eating at home with their families rather than eat-out. The goal of this study was to examine the manifestation of eat-home and eat-out activities in the daily dietary life of Taiwanese people in the early years, focusing on regular meals rather than nonregular ones such as snacks or feasts. Thus, the development and expansion of eat-out activities in the time when eat-home activities were the mainstream meal activities could be clarified. To trace back to the origin, the pre-war era of Taiwan was identified as early Taiwan and selected as the center of the research. The chronicles of Taiwan in the Qing dynasty and the newspapers, magazines, and diaries during the Japanese rule were investigated to observe the attitudes of pre-war Taiwanese people on eat-home and eat-out activities and the characteristics of the eat-out industry aimed at basic life subsistence during that era. Chapter 2 describes the eat-out and eat-home consumption activities in Taiwan during its Qing rule. Most of the eat-out activities were observed in pn̄g-tiàm and snack bars. Most of these activities were performed by working class people living in river ports and city streets, but upper-class people and rural residents rarely ate outside home; rather, they constituted primarily an “eat-home society”. Eat-out activities provided rice and meat, which were rarely available in rural life, to working class people, who were required to expend an enormous amount of energy at work every day. Those eat-out places were like “oases” for the laborers. Chapter 3 focuses on the leisurely eat-out consumption culture introduced by the Japanese people in Taiwan during the Japanese rule. In the early stage of the Japanese rule, most of the Japanese who entered Taiwan were military and government personnel and speculators, who tended to spend a massive amount of money on leisure eat-out activities associated with red-light districts. Starting from the middle period of Japanese rule, the presence of Japanese residents in Taiwan became commonplace. Shokudo, which emerged in the major cities of Japan after its Meiji Restoration, were introduced in Taiwan and became new places for commoners’ eat-out activities in both Japan and Taiwan during urban development and economic recession. Students from the modern education and white-collar workers, who emerged as a new labor class in the cities, replaced traditional working-class people as the primary consumers in the eat-out culture. Chapter 4 discusses the attitudes of the emerging Taiwanese intellectuals in the middle period of Japanese rule on the eat-out and eat-home consumption cultures through an examination of diaries and memoirs. Until the 1930s, although the eat-out culture had emerged in the urban daily life in Taiwan, many of the upper middle-class Taiwanese families still preferred eat-home activities as their primary daily meal activities, and eat-out activities were mostly conducted by male family members to demonstrate their dietary expertise. Overall, the pre-war Taiwanese society was primarily an eat-home society.