十四至十八世紀中國「閨妝知識」的分類與編輯

Abstract

在十四至十八世紀中國，一套養顏美容藥方常被冠以「閨妝」、「閨閣」等名稱，在大眾出版市場中被不同書籍傳抄，經歷多次重組與再造。本文試圖探究：這套涉及女性身體的藥方，在近世中國文人筆下，經歷怎樣的性質轉變？過往的美容方研究多從養生文化與醫療實踐切入，本文則擬用類書、筆記與養生書等跨年代且跨文類的材料，梳理編者在集結多種知識的出版品中，如何重新分類、定位與編輯美容藥方。藉由觀察閨妝知識的系譜，本文發現：在元、明之間，閨妝知識出現「居家知識化」與「性別化」的傾向。此外，閨妝知識中的女性身體被男性文人賦予多重意義——既是面向鄰人的展示物，也是男性家主閒賞時的玩物；既乘載美色的想像，也象徵家庭的整潔與道德無暇。進一步而言，女性身體的多重意義，揭示近世文人面臨時代變遷的掙扎處境，包含仕與隱、城與鄉、雅與俗、禮與情，而投身美容方等治家文本的編輯活動，成為其人試圖掌握秩序的應對策略。

In China, from the 14th to the 18th centuries, there was a collection of recipes for beautification techniques, often labeled with names such as "boudoir makeup" (guīzhuāng, 閨妝) or "inner chamber" (guīgé, 閨閣), circulating in the publishing market through various books and undergoing multiple reorganizations and reconstructions. This paper seeks to explore how these recipes concerning the female body were transformed in the hands of early modern Chinese literati. While previous research on beautification recipes has often studied them from the perspectives of nourishing life culture and medical practice, this paper intends to use materials spanning long eras and different genres, such as encyclopedias (leishū, 類書), pen-notes texts (bǐjì, 筆記), and health manuals, to trace how editors reclassified, positioned, and edited the recipes of beautification techniques in their compilations of various knowledge. By observing the genealogy of the recipes, this paper finds that between the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the knowledge of beautification exhibited tendencies towards domestic and gendered knowledge. Furthermore, the female body within the knowledge of beautification was endowed with multiple meanings by male literati—it was both an object of display to neighbors and a plaything for the male head of the household during leisure; it both carried the male imagination of a beautiful lady and symbolized the cleanliness and moral integrity of the family. Additionally, the multiple meanings of the female body reveal the struggles faced by early modern literati amid changing times, including the dichotomies of official career versus reclusion, urban versus rural, refinement versus vulgarity, and Neo-Confucian orthodoxy versus human desires. Engaging in the editing of texts on household management, such as the recipes for beautification techniques, became a strategy for these literati to attempt to maintain order.