臺灣當代飲食散文中的家族書寫

Abstract

本文旨在討論臺灣當代飲食散文中，作家們如何通過書寫家族飲食連結家族記憶，並有所傳承與創發。所使用的文本以2000-2023年出版之作品為主，除第一章為緒論，第五章為結論外，正文分為三章，分別觀察了戰後二、三代作家的家傳菜與家族史書寫、節慶與生命各階段的家族飲食記憶，以及家族飲食文化的實踐方式。希藉由這三個面向的分析，掘發當代飲食文學創作的趨勢與現象，據此更加了解臺灣社會文化的變遷。 在正文部分，第二章「家傳菜與家族史」，分析了分屬不同背景的作家如何通過飲食書寫家族史。外省二代作家筆下的家族史多分為遷臺前後兩個階段，餐桌上的家鄉菜能連結到父母輩轉述與個人想像的家族流亡記憶，而在臺灣餐桌的飲食經驗則因親身經歷，瑣細且真實，兼有父母家鄉菜與本地的滋味；跨省通婚家族出身的作家，除了父系飲食的鄉愁，又寫到父母家族的飲食文化在餐桌上的碰撞，隱喻族群間的交流與融合；本省望族後代的作家則強調本土記憶，家族之味的溯源與居住地及特定祖先緊密相連，歷史變遷在家族故事中僅作為飲食背景，並未直接影響飲食承載的情感內涵。 接著，第三章「特殊時刻的家族飲食」，探討了作家們如何描繪重要節慶與生命各階段的家族飲食記憶。外省作家筆下的節慶飲食仍有父母的鄉愁情調，但多數作家的節慶飲食經驗已本土化，以臺灣南北或族群特性來區辨自家的獨特性，並憂心節慶食物因商業化產生的存續問題，還有煮食勞務後的性別議題。生命禮俗的飲食記憶則揭示了作家對自身家庭角色轉變的思考，將食物做為聯繫世代情感的紐帶，其中死亡相關飲食，又寄託了對逝去至親的複雜情感。 再次，第四章「家族飲食書寫的傳承理念與實踐」，考察了作家們如何保存和傳承家族飲食文化。有的作家選擇舉辦家宴，烹煮逝者生前擅長和喜愛的菜色宴請親友；外省作家多有返鄉尋根的書寫，反覆對照父母口中的原鄉與親身所見的虛實，其情感多為好奇或失望，且在返鄉後強化了家族所在之處才是家鄉的認同；有一些作家通過教導子女製作家傳菜餚，或承接父母的溫情餵養，從家族內部延續家族飲食文化。也有一些作家積極向外推廣家族菜餚，將家族飲食文化推向更廣泛的受眾。 最後，本文將家族飲食書寫置於臺灣飲食文學發展史中，指出家族飲食書寫在創作題材和書寫類型上的突破與融合。在後現代史觀的影響下，家族飲食書寫成為探究家族史的重要線索，並融入了抒情、考證、尋訪、實踐等多元書寫類型，展現出豐富的創作空間。這一題材不僅延續了臺灣飲食文學的發展脈絡，也成為當代文學中值得持續挖掘的重要領域。

This paper explores how contemporary Taiwanese writers use family food narratives in their culinary essays to connect with, preserve, and innovate family memories. The primary texts examined were published between 2000 and 2023. Besides the introductory chapter and the conclusion, the main body of this paper is divided into three chapters, each focusing on different aspects: the depiction of family recipes and family histories by second- and third-generation post-war writers, the significance of family food memories during festive and life stages, and the practical ways of preserving and transmitting family culinary culture. Through this tripartite analysis, the study aims to uncover trends and phenomena in contemporary culinary literature, thereby gaining a deeper understanding of the social and cultural changes in Taiwan. In the main body, Chapter Two, "Family Recipes and Family Histories," analyzes how writers from different backgrounds use food to write about their family histories. Second-generation mainlander writers often divide their family histories into two phases: before and after migrating to Taiwan. The homeland dishes on their tables evoke memories of their parents’ narratives and their own imaginations of their family’s exile, while their dining experiences in Taiwan are detailed and authentic, combining the flavors of their parents' homeland and local tastes. Writers from inter-provincial marriages describe not only the nostalgia of their father’s cuisine but also the culinary collisions between their parents’ family traditions, symbolizing the exchange and integration of different ethnic groups. In contrast, writers from established Taiwanese families emphasize local memories, where the source of family flavors is closely linked to their residence and specific ancestors. Historical changes serve merely as a backdrop in their family stories and do not directly influence the emotional content carried by the food. Chapter Three, "Family Food during Special Moments," explores how writers depict family food memories during significant festivals and life stages. For mainlander writers, festive foods retain the nostalgic tone of their parents, but for most writers, these experiences have been localized, distinguishing their unique festive food traditions through the regional or ethnic characteristics of Taiwan. They express concerns over the continuity of these foods due to commercialization and address gender issues related to culinary labor. Food memories tied to life stages reveal the writers' reflections on their changing family roles, using food as a bond to connect generations. Foods related to death hold complex emotions towards deceased loved ones. Chapter Four, "The Ideals and Practices of Family Food Writing," examines how writers preserve and transmit family culinary culture. Some writers choose to host family banquets, preparing dishes that the deceased excelled at and enjoyed, inviting friends and relatives. Many mainlander writers document their journeys to their ancestral homes, comparing their parents' nostalgic recollections with their own observations, often feeling curiosity or disappointment, which ultimately reinforces their identity with the family’s current location as their true home. Some writers teach their children to make family recipes, continuing the nurturing tradition from their parents and preserving family culinary culture internally. Others actively promote their family dishes to a broader audience, spreading their family culinary culture externally. Finally, this paper situates family food writing within the history of Taiwanese culinary literature, highlighting breakthroughs and integrations in themes and writing styles. Influenced by postmodern historiography, family food writing has become a crucial clue in exploring family histories, incorporating lyrical, evidential, exploratory, and practical writing styles, showcasing a rich creative space. This subject not only continues the development trajectory of Taiwanese culinary literature but also stands as an important field for further exploration in contemporary literature.