製造特產性：宜蘭三星蔥的文化迴路分析

Abstract

地方特產對台灣人而言並不陌生。將地方冠名其上的產物就彷彿獲得品質的保證而受消費者歡迎。兼具振興地方經濟與凝聚地方認同的功能，更讓台灣各地興起特產產業的熱潮。三星蔥在其中則是特別的例子：不僅沒有悠久發展歷史，且青蔥在華人飲食生活中還是普遍常用而廉價的食材。而關於如此平凡的物何以一躍成為知名地方特產，我則認為是某些使物得以獨特的特質「特產性」作用的結果。

本論文以物質文化研究中Du Gay的文化迴路概念為基礎，藉著媒體文本分析與訪談相關業者，觀察特產物於生產、消費、再現、規制與認同等層面的運作，以及各範疇間接合的交互作用，企圖以物的角度探究三星蔥特產性的製造過程：經由農民的生產與認證制度間接的規制，所種出的三星蔥不僅蔥白長、蔥味濃郁，還是具有食用安全保障的。接著在媒體報導與展示活動的再現下，除了強調三星蔥的高品質與高價格，更同時以傳統、農村與在地等象徵意象為訴求行銷。在上述物質與象徵特質的交疊之下，三星蔥的特產性逐漸累積形成，成為生產者與消費者共同認同之物。 但從消費者的迴響中，卻發現到三星蔥物質與象徵特質斷裂的情形：消費者雖曾聽聞名聲，卻不清楚三星蔥實際擁有的物質特質。而在訪談對象的經驗裡，販賣強調健康的三星蔥亦遭遇困境。這些認同錯位的例子呈現出了特產性運作的特徵與問題：1. 符號化的地方成為定義特產物的關鍵及其品質的背書。2. 三星蔥成為美食品嚐與觀光旅遊活動中的地方特色風味，但包含健康等物質特質卻未納入其意義脈絡。3. 當消費成為特產性與文化迴路各層面的最終依歸時，認同將不再只是純粹的情感，營利的目的將無可避免地進入特產性的意義之中。

Local special products are not unfamiliar things for Taiwanese. By adding the place-name before the product, it seems to be the guarantee for quality and let it more popular. And cause the functions of prospering local properties and uniting solidarities, There is a boom in Taiwan for developing local special products. Among them, Sanshin green onion is the special one: not just its short history, but also green onion is a commonly used and cheap ingredient in Chinese culinary culture. And how this mundane thing suddenly become a famous local special product, I think it’s from the effect of specialty, which makes things be unique. This material culture research thesis uses Du Gay’s concept “cultural circuit” for foundation. And through the analysis of media context and interview the industries of Sanshin green onion, I observe the operation of production, consumption, representation, regulation, identity, and the interaction among their articulations, to explore the making process of specialty from the viewpoint of things: by the cultivation of farmers and the regulation from certification, make Sanshin green onions grow longer white stalk, stronger fragrance, and more reliable in food safety. Then, in the representation from media and display, not only emphasize their high quality and high price, but also use traditional, rural and local images to promote them. Under these physical and symbolic characteristics overlapped, the specialty of Sanshin green onion gradually appears, and identified by producers and consumers. But in the responses of consumers, I find out that there is a split between physical and symbolic characteristics: although hearing the fame, they usually don’t know what the physical characteristics are certainly. And in the experiences of interviewees, selling healthy Sanshin green onions let them have some difficulties. These examples about the dislocation of identity express the features and problems of specialty: 1.Symbolized place-name becomes a crucial point of distinction and the endorsement of quality. 2. Sanshin green onion becomes the delicious local taste in gourmet and local tourism, but the physical characteristics such as health are not involved in these contexts. 3. When the consumption becomes the ultimate goal of specialty and cultural circuit, the feeling of identity is simply pure no longer, and brining the purpose of profit into the meaning of specialty inevitably.