《紅樓夢》男性人物之服飾書寫——以賈寶玉為中心

Abstract

《紅樓夢》是一部描寫貴族世家生活的中國長篇小說，作者曹雪芹以細膩的筆觸和詳實的描寫，既塑造了豐富多彩的人物形象與關係，又展現了許多滿清貴族的階級特徵，諸如長幼尊卑有序、禮節儀式繁瑣、日用排場消費龐大等等。書中甚至還囊括了物質文化裡的服飾、飲食、建築、醫藥、茶道等各種面向，而本文將專注於探討「男性服裝」，雖然作者幾乎都聚焦於刻畫賈寶玉一人的服飾，但是對於其他男性人物，作者也往往以寥寥數筆就把一些服裝的形制或功能隱藏在相關敘述裡，而且不少均可在文獻史料中找到對應的記載。對於《紅樓夢》的男性服裝書寫，本文先是以衣裳的色彩、圖紋和材質作為切入關鍵，分析曹雪芹如何運用這些服裝特質反映出小說人物的身份階級，然後再藉著這三種服裝性質辨別出不同場合與季節的著裝差異，最後則是探討曹雪芹如何透過不同的紋飾和服色搭配塑造出賈寶玉的形象。

The Dream of the Red Chamber is a Chinese epic novel that depicts the lives of aristocratic families. The author, Cao Xue-qin（曹雪芹）, portrays a rich array of characters and their relationships through delicate brushstrokes and detailed descriptions. The novel also showcases various class features of the Qing Dynasty's nobility, such as the hierarchical order of respect based on age, intricate rituals and etiquette, and lavish daily consumption. The novel even encompasses various aspects of material culture, including clothing, food and drink, architecture, medicine, and tea ceremonies. However, this thesis will focus specifically on the exploration of men's clothing. Although the author mainly focuses on depicting the attire of the protagonist, Jia Bao-yu（賈寶玉）, in great detail, there are also brief mentions and hidden descriptions of clothing styles and functions related to other male characters. Many of these can be found in historical documents. Regarding the portrayal of men's clothing in The Dream of the Red Chamber, this thesis begins by examining the colors, patterns, and materials of garments as key elements. It analyzes how Cao Xue-qin utilizes these clothing characteristics to reflect the social status of the characters. The thesis then distinguishes the variations in attire for different occasions and seasons based on these three clothing attributes. Finally, this thesis explores how Cao Xue-qin shapes the image of Jia Bao-yu through different patterns and color combinations of his clothing.