功能性纖維與布料的開發-以複合涼感纖維與涼感牛仔布料開發為例

Abstract

牛仔褲的舒適與耐用性，讓這個歷史超過百年的產品仍然在市場上屹立不搖，也因為消費者對於牛仔褲的喜愛，因此對於此產品的缺點也願意忍耐接受，例如不容易乾燥、缺乏伸縮延展性、粗糙不柔軟的手感、以及悶熱不透氣的感覺……。而針對這些缺點，近幾年來牛仔褲品牌已經有做了部分的改良，例如加入彈性纖維來增加伸縮延展性，藉由成衣水洗與柔軟助劑的添加來改善柔軟問題，但是對於吸濕排汗、快速乾燥與涼爽舒適性的需求，仍然無法完全滿足消費者的期待。 此研究仍致力於保持經典牛仔褲的風格與特性，藉由維持性的創新來提供消費者更優越的產品選擇。本研究非常重視理性的測試數據，經由不斷的往復測試來驗證其公正客觀效果。首先從現有纖維材料作分析比較，針對涼感效能與穿著舒適性做相關的測試，從其中挑選出測試結果最佳的纖維原料。然後再經由組合設計新開發出一款全新的複合涼感纖維，當此一新複合涼感纖維完成後，也需要做相關的涼度效能檢測，驗證是否符合當初所設定的期望目標，最後再將此複合涼感纖維運用在涼感牛仔布料的開發上。 因此，本研究的目的，是先針對市場上常用的天然纖維以及人造合成纖維做分析比較。但因為不同纖維所擁有的特性完全不同，天然纖維屬於短纖維 (staple yarn)，而人造纖維屬於長纖維 (filament yarn)，因此無法單憑個別纖維原本形狀外觀來做比較。為了使得測試結果可以公正客觀，特別將所有不同的纖維，都以平織布的平紋組織，用人工手打樣方式 (hand-loom) 製作完全相同條件的布塊，再委託第三方公證檢驗機構 (Intertek全國公證檢驗公司)，使用相同的四種測試條件，以客觀數據來判斷涼感效果與舒適性的表現。再依照各種纖維特性相互搭配，以高親水性的天然纖維或纖維素纖維材質，取其優越的芯吸作用，結合人造合成纖維的瞬間涼感與快速乾燥的功效，研發複合涼感纖維(composite cooling fiber)，並利用此複合涼感纖維，設計出具有專利申請資格的涼感牛仔布料(cooling denim fabrics)，確認可以有效解決多年來牛仔布料的諸多缺點，並且進一步開發出真正具有持續涼感與穿著舒適性兼備的高機能性牛仔褲產品。

The comfort and durability of jeans make this product that has been in existence for over 100 years still stand on the market, and because consumers love jeans, they are also willing to accept the disadvantages of this product. However, the needed for quick drying and cool comfort still does not fully satisfy consumer expectations. This research is still committed to maintaining the style and characteristics of classic jeans, with the maintenance of innovative to provide consumers with superior product selection. This study places great emphasis on rational test data and verifies its fairness and objective results through continuous reciprocal testing. First of all, from the analysis and comparison of the existing fiber materials, the cooling effect and wearing comfort are related to the test, from which to select the best test results of fiber materials. Then, a new composite cooling fiber is newly developed through a combination design. The composite cooling fiber is used in the development of cool denim fabrics. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to first analyze and compare the natural fibers and synthetic fibers commonly used in the market. In particular, all the different fibers are organized in a plain weave hand-looms, the exactly same conditions, and a third-party notary inspection agency is entrusted (Intertek Taiwan) uses the same four test conditions to judge coolness and comfort performance with objective data. According to the characteristics of various fibers, the high-hydrophilic natural fiber or cellulose fiber material, taking its superior wicking effect, combined with the instant cooling effect of artificial synthetic fiber, developed composite cooling fiber, and using this composite cooling fiber to design cool denim fabrics with patent application qualifications, confirming that it can effectively solve many disadvantages of denim fabrics over the years, and further developing a truly continuous cooling and wearing comfort.