飲食觀光與食物品質建構：以烏來原住民料理為例

Abstract

當代飲食觀光的迅速崛起與飲食文化的日益勃興，標誌著整體臺灣社會在近二十年來進入以文化經濟為主軸的發展新階段。食物品質流動、可塑的特質，在飲食觀光興起的過程中愈見凸顯，著重食物的功能性與安全性的「客觀」品質範型，與強調社會性與美學性的「主觀」品質範型，兩者之間也逐漸顯現拉鋸緊張。當臺灣在生產、消費與制度各層面愈加認肯地方或族群特色飲食的同時，似乎意指臺灣飲食品質的主導範型出現了轉移。現代媒體、政策法規、產業體制等社會機制皆對此轉型有所影響，對弱勢的飲食文化市場而言，WEB 2.0參與式網路文化的新近發展特別值得關注，其孕育出「創用」的新體制，在生產與消費網絡之間作為重要的文化中介。 本研究以新北市烏來地區觀光發展至今轉而強調原住民特色料理為例，透過報紙報導的歷史性追溯、創用者在部落格的使用者生產內容以及當地餐廳業者與消費者的深入訪談，利用不同研究方法，結合不同行動者的資料來源，紮根於品質化理論，探討原住民料理如何從過去備受市場忽視，轉而成為當代飲食觀光的特色焦點，以了解飲食活動的完整面貌及飲食觀光興起的過程。研究結果顯示，固然在後現代消費社會中，食物與地方、地方性的關係成為品質化的焦點，但做為觀光客體，地方飲食歷經了品質再建構的轉化，以對應消費者所追求「可滿足的真實性」。當中，不只是生產端的行動者呈現競爭的關係，具較高文化資本的創用者，也透過網誌平台建構具高度凝聚力的品質論述，顯示出飲食觀光的新興，不只是地方發展及消費者所需的支持，更是不同行動者在食物品質建構的網絡中，逐漸協商與磨合後的結果。

The rising of food tourism and the blooming of food culture today mark the new developing stage which cultural economy is central in last twenty years. The mobility and constructability of food quality are significant at the process of emerging food tourism. Besides, the struggle between objective quality paradigm focusing on the function and security and the subjective quality paradigm emphasizing the sociality and aestheticity becomes more noticeable. In Taiwan, as production, consumption and institution increasingly supporting local or ethnic food shows that leading paradigm of food quality is shifting. Social mechanisms including modern media, policy, industrial structure etc have effect on the trend. Particularly for the peripheral market of food culture, the new system of ‘proconsumption’ formulated by participatory cultures of Web 2.0, acts as the bridge between producers and consumers networks. In this study, we use Wulai district in New Taipei City as case and concentrate on its tourism development that centers on aboriginal cuisine today. By combining several research methods and data from different actors, including content analysis and discourse analysis of blog and press media, as well as in-depth interview with local restaurants and consumers, we try to discuss how the aboriginal cuisine is reconstructed to be one of the most important toured objects and foremost how the food tourism in Taiwan emerge. The results show that even the relationships of food, local and locality become the focus of qualification in post-modern society, local food go through requalification to meet with the ‘ satisfiable authenticity’ of consumers. Among which not only actors on the production chain compete with each other, also ‘proconsumers’ integrate quality discourse on blog and intermediate between local and extralocal. To summarize, indeed the rising of food tourism reflects the approach of cultural economy and the characteristics of consumption today, however it still more depends on the food qualification of both objective and subjective qualities in the network which actors have been through struggle and negotiation.