臺灣飲食散文的當代表現

Abstract

臺灣的「飲食文學」一詞自九○年代確立一來，飲食散文創作能量持續至今，書寫飲食的作品在數量和文學表現上皆有豐富而多元的成果。本研究以「飲食散文」為研究對象，第二章首先提出兩點對於臺灣飲食散文寫作的觀察與思考：第一，筆者發現，飲食的「專業化」寫作顯示為一項具備辨識性的書寫類型，寫作者以食物或任何飲食相關的行為為寫作對象，深入其內涵，同時專注於專業知識與審美的面向，並自覺地進行飲食的文學化寫作，甚至經營個人的飲食話語風格。因此，筆者將論述飲食書寫作為「專業散文」的要素與特質，並討論其呈現文學價值與趣味性的美學判準。第二，筆者依照對時下社會趨勢的觀察，對應飲食寫作發展的思考，指出一種地方書寫式的飲食散文，可以作為一種「文學行動」，以飲食書寫再現「地方性」，尋回「地方性」被認識、認同與尊重的可能性。 筆者基於對臺灣飲食文化、飲食生活，以及與臺灣飲食相關之書寫作品的興趣和關懷，針對書寫臺灣本土的飲食散文進行觀察。這些飲食散文的創作型態多元，具備不同的書寫面相，相同的飲食題旨能有不同的書寫型態，而相同型態的書寫作品也可能因內容與形式策略的不同，使文本產生不同的特質，產生美感或趣味，引起讀者在閱讀中的不同感受或思索。筆者欲探究各種「文學內涵」與不同「書寫型態」之對應關係所產生的寫作成果，因此在第三章先為飲食散文的書寫型態進行歸納，在抽象內涵上建立類型。第四章則歸納出幾項文學內涵，在所建立的類型架構下，以台灣飲食散文代表作家與文集作品為主要對象進行文本討論，疏理出臺灣飲食散文的當代表現。

Since the term “Food writing” was established in Taiwan from 1990s, the creative capacity of food writing has continued developing. Both the number of works and literary performance in writing food have possessed abundant and various achievements. This study takes “food prose” as object and proposes two points in Chapter 2 after observing and thinking about prose of Taiwan food writing: First, I finds that “professionalizing” writing of food demonstrates an identifiable writing style, in which writers take any kinds of food and related behaviors as writing objects and go deep into them. Meanwhile, they concentrate on professional knowledge and aesthetic aspect, conducting literary writing of food consciously and engaging in personal food language style. Therefore, I will dissert the elements and characteristics that make food writing as “essay-writing” and discuss the aesthetic criteria of literature value and interests. Second, applying my thoughts on development of food writing to my observation on social trends nowadays, I points out that local-writing of food literature could serve as one kind of “literary practice”—by reproducing the “locality”, the possibility of knowing, preserving and promoting “locality” could be found. I observe food writing that concerns indigenous Taiwan food base on my interests and concerns in Taiwan food culture, food life, and relevant written works. The creative figurations of these food prose are various, possessing different writing aspects. There could be different writing figurations for the same themes, and the works of same figurations can still lead to different characteristics, sense of beauty, interests due to differences of contents, strategies and styles, bringing about different feelings and thoughts for the readers. I would like to explore the writing achievements of every kind of relationship between “literature connotation” and “writing figuration”; therefore, in Chapter 3, writing figurations for food prose are inducted and categories are constructed based on their abstract connotation. In Chapter 4, the literature connotation of several representative Taiwanese food writers and texts of their works are discussed under the established structure of categories. The representation of contemporary food prose in Taiwan will be organized and clarified.