臺灣當代飲食書寫中的異域景觀：旅外經驗與文化對話

Abstract

本論文以飲食書寫中的異域飲食經驗為題，以一九四九年前後來臺之作家作品與一九八○年代以後的作品為兩大主要討論對象。在第二章中，討論一九四九年前後來臺作家筆下的作品，從研究成果發現：此時期，由於飲食書寫的素材有限，因此，就飲食文化的角度觀察，內容並不豐富；然而，作家在離散（diaspora）的時空遭遇下，從文本中卻相互呼應、呈顯出個人在家國、歷史的變盪下，顛沛流離的心靈風景。 一九八○年代以後，異域飲食書寫文本在質量上有了巨大的轉變，風格繽紛恣肆，筆調輕快飛揚，洋溢著對異國文化好奇、敢於接納的開放心境，相當程度呼應了當時臺灣社會解嚴、經濟水平提昇、旅遊風氣普及的繁景；這個時期，作家突破傳統視野，擴大對視飲食為追求、探索的項目，由飲食為專題的書寫，展現了食無疆界與「奢華」的飲食經驗，同時，在境外�跨國飲食經驗下，窺見了飲食文化中「味覺品評」與「餐飲專業」的兩大部份。並且，在此時期，境外�跨國飲食經驗作為自我的鏡像映照，促使作者�旅人針對自我認同（self-identity）的問題提問。直到九○年代以後，在地飲食文化的認肯為大眾普遍所接受，在底飲食書寫蔚為顯學，而文本內容，也可視為對於八○年代提出的疑義作出解答。 最末，筆者在結論中提出，異域飲食書寫核心處理的課題即為「自我」（self）與「他者」（the other），而串連所有文本，並觀察其中作家心境的變化，可以察覺：由於社會條件的轉變，藉由飲食經驗，作者對於「自我」的界義也被拓展，在將來，以全球觀點出發的創作，是未來飲食書寫所可以期待的。

This article focuses on the topic of food writing for exotic food experiences. The two major subjects of discussion are the writers who came to Taiwan around 1949 and the works written after 1980’s. In chapter two, I discuss the writers’ works around 1949 in Taiwan. The research discovers: in this era, the food writing materials were limited, so the food culture was not rich. However, the texts in the diaspora showed individual’s spiritual view for the changeable times and spaces of home and country. Since 1980’s, the exotic food writing texts have had a huge change in quality and quantity. The writing style was free, fast, colorful and delightful. It showed that the curiosity and open-mind for exotic culture. It also echoed Taiwan society after the lifting of martial law, with the prosperous views of the growth of economic level and the trend of traveling. In this era, the writers broke the traditional vision and enlarged the scope of pursuing and exploring food. From the writings concerning food showed that there’s no boundary for food and ‘luxury’ food experience. In the meantime, under off-shore/ cross-national food experience, we can see ‘taste evaluation’ and ‘food profession’ these two parts in the food culture. In addition, in this era, off-shore/ cross-national food experiences were the images of the self-reflection, to make the writers/travelers ask the questions on ‘self-identity’. Till 1990’s, local food culture has become a famous topic and has been generally accepted by the masses. And this article is to answer the questions that have been asked from 1980’s. At the end, I concluded that the exotic food writing was focused on the topic of ‘self’ and ‘the other’. To connect all the texts and to observe the change of the writers’ mind, we can know: due to the changing social conditions, by food experience, writers could define ‘self’ at wider scales. In the future, to create the food writing works from global view is what we can expect.