台灣紡織業的發展與競爭力研究

Abstract

台灣的紡織業一直以來在台灣整體產業中佔有很重要的地位，近二十年逐步發展為以人造纖維為主的產業結構，從石化業所延伸的上游纖維廠、中游的紡紗、織布、染整、到下游的成衣、服飾業，形成非常完整的上、中、下游製造體系與群聚效益，也建立跨國性產銷網絡，因此具備高度的競爭力。近年來因為多重因素使得台灣的紡織產業外移日趨嚴重，尤其在1989年政府宣佈開放中國投資後外移的現象更加劇烈。在中國挾著其豐沛的低廉勞工與土地成本的優勢，對台灣業者形成「磁吸效應」，使得台灣的紡織產業面臨「空洞化」的危機。但經過20多年來的時間證明，台灣的紡織業仍然屹立不搖繼續發展中，相對的新興國家的生產環境也發生變化，這種經濟發展的規律是無可改變的。展望未來台灣的紡織業將如何維持其核心的競爭優勢與價值，並創造繼續領先的策略，是值得探討的重要且嚴肅的課題。鑑於個人從事紡織業30年，長期與紡織業的上、中、下游廠商的接觸經驗，本研究期以長期參與觀察法，輔以經營者及投資者角度，針對台灣紡織業的發展與競爭力進行研究。 本研究採用時序分析法探討台灣紡織業的結構性變化及其因果關係，歸納台灣紡織業的引進、萌芽—起飛、成長—高峰、衰退--外移、轉型之各階段歷程，透過對中國紡織業發展歷程的分析瞭解，探討兩岸紡織業的競合，並進而提出台灣紡織業未來發展的方向與競爭策略。 研究結果可以歸納下列結論：1、台灣紡織業的外移因素，早期因「配額」的貿易障礙往尼加拉瓜、墨西哥等地設廠；1989以來因「成本」考量而往中國、越南投資；2000年以後因「市場」需求而加大中國投資的力度。2、過去雖然面對中國與新興國家紡織業在數量、品種和價格等優勢的激烈競爭，然而中國等國家的紡織業者也都面臨日益高漲的工資與環保成本，可預期的其未來的「價格」與「成本」的競爭優勢不再。因此，台灣的紡織業仍具備競爭的條件與機會。3、展望未來，台灣應繼續採差異化的高附加價值產品以區隔市場的發展策略，捨棄過去單打獨鬥的營運模式，結合國內上、中、下游產業鏈的力量，建立策略聯盟的關係，來增強對外的競爭力。並且改變中國為「唯一出路」的觀念。加強技術研發和創新，把傳統產業高科技化，並且積極建立自有品牌與通路，將未來放眼於全球的市場，則台灣的紡織業一定會有更光明的前途。

Textile industry stands a significant position in Taiwan. The industry structure around manmade fabric gradually developed in recent two decades. From the petrochemical industry composed by fabric factories in upstream, sinning, weaving and dyeing-and-finishing in the midstream to the textile industry in the downstream, we not only created cluster effect but also built a highly-competitive international industry network. Recently, due to multiple reasons, the textile industrial migration in Taiwan is getting more and more serious, especially after 1989 when China released its investment policy. With the advantages of cheap labor and abundant resource, it caused a serious magnet effect of China and the deindustrialization of Taiwan. The way how textile industry in Taiwan finds the competitive advantage and creates pioneering strategy continuously becomes a topic worth to discuss. Since I have worked in textile industry for 30 years, and have deep understanding and experience in the entire industry, in this research, I use long term participant observation method, with both the view of a manager and developer to discuss the development, change and competency of Taiwanese textile industry in the past twenty years. This research adopted time series analysis to discuss the structural change and its causality reason of textile industry in Taiwan, and to explain the development of stages from growing, decline, migrating, and changing. Through the discussion of the co-opetition in cross-strait, we come out the long-term development direction and Competitiveness of textile industry in Taiwan. With the research, we make the following conclusion: 1. While textile industry in Taiwan had emmigrated to Nicaragua and Mexico because of “quota restriction”, and moved to China and Vietnam with the consideration of “cost” after 1989, the textile industry in Taiwan enlargerd the investment in the “domestic market” in China after 2000. 2. China and those thriving countries had the advantage over amount, type and price in the past, but they also face the rising cost in labor and environmental protection. We can foresee the advantage would no longer exist in the future, and Taiwan still has competitive conditions and opportunities. 3. Heading for the future, textile industry in Taiwan should focus on high additional value, excellent quality and market segregation, change the concept from working alone to the strategic alliance by integrating upstream, midstream and downstream, and abandon the idea of taking China as the only way out. By making high-technology involved in traditional industry, investing in R&D actively and building up our own brand and channel, we can see the bright future and the worldwide market for textile industry in Taiwan.