女為悅誰而容? — 當代日本女性化妝的意義變遷

Abstract

「女為悅誰而容? -- 當代日本女性化妝的意義變遷」 摘要 化妝是有史以來廣泛普及於人類的文化行為之一。其性質是可變的，依時代背景、所屬集團和文化不同，對於化妝的認知也有所更替。彩妝迷誕生的背景在90年代，當時化妝品的符號化以及化妝品的流通產生了變化。80年代末期已達飽和狀態的服裝符號化，在進入了90年代後，轉向化妝品的符號化。符號化後的化妝品變得多樣化，並細分為多種機能，彷彿服裝一般，追求「搭配」。同時，賣場也產生了變化，百貨公司的貴婦彩妝及藥妝店的開架彩妝，使得消費者可親手取得實物，在實際上試用後再決定購買化妝品。於是消費者可自由地選擇各式各樣的化妝品。此外，消費者由接受「符號」，轉變為「搭配」化妝品。如此一來，女性「點燃彩妝魂」，其中更不乏身為積極「接受者」的彩妝迷。於是彩妝開始成為無法忽視的存在。在本研究中，我將以日本的「化妝迷」為研究對象，探討其獨特的「讀取」「書寫」與「談論」等文化實作，從而說明當代日本女性化妝意義的變遷。

The Meaning of Modern Japanese Women’s Make-up Transformation Summary Make-up is one of the most popular human cultural behaviors ever since. Within different generations, belonging enterprises and cultures, the idea of make-up changes over time. Enthusiastic make-up persons arose from the changes of cosmetics symbolization and cosmetics circulation, in 1990’s, Clothing symbolization had been satisfied in the end of 1980’s; thus, the culture switched to cosmetics symbolization in 1990’s. The symbolized cosmetics were varied, and it was divided into several functions like clothes which can be collocated to each other. Meanwhile, there were also changes in the market. Consumers can touch and try on those cosmetics from expensive ones in the department stores & open-shelf ones in drug stores, and then they decided to buy it or not. Therefore, consumers can freely choose various cosmetics. Besides, they changed from accepting “Symbol” into “Collocating” cosmetics. Thus, women’s souls were inspired by cosmetics, and some of them were enthusiastic “acceptable” make-up fans. Hence, make-up is becoming an important issue which we can not igore. In this research, I select “Japanese make-up fans” as the objectors to discuss their unique “reading”, “writing”& “discussing” articles, and it reveals the meaning of modern Japanese women’s make-up tranformation.