展翅不高飛─台灣土雞，走自己的路

Abstract

本篇深度採訪論文透過訪談養雞產業鍊中，從生產者、盤商、政府單位等各個角色，試圖從生產模式、飲食文化、訂價系統、政策思維以及認證機制等面向，初步描繪台灣土雞產業的面貌。 採訪過程發現，台灣養雞產業分為兩個不同市場：白肉雞與俗稱「土雞」的有色雞。商業模式也可分為兩種：契作，以及農民俗稱為「自己拚」的非契作飼養方式。自1980年代末期以來，白肉雞市場在政府推動下，目前已經達到高度垂直整合，超過九成雞農加入和大型肉品企業的契作；土雞雞農則較排斥參與契作，個體戶較多。 近年來，台灣土雞產業不斷受到各種因素衝擊，使得飼養土雞的雞農遇到更艱困的挑戰。經歸納，外在因素有：一、加入WTO後大量開放進口雞肉。二、進口飼料成本上升；內在因素有：一、國人飲食習慣西化，土雞消費量降低。二、政府推動以電宰取代人工宰殺，並加強取締私宰。 在衝擊之下，有土雞雞農選擇加入與企業契作，也有個體戶正在嘗試發展更友善環境的飼養方式，提升產品的市場區隔性，也讓消費者能夠擁有更多不同的選擇。 面對國際糧價上漲的困境，台灣已經沒有條件再對進口雞肉採取價格戰，而應該透過建立具有公信力的認證系統，來提升雞肉產品的品質。同時，也需要重新建立吃土雞的飲食文化，讓優良產品擁有消費者的支持，讓土雞產業的社會文化網絡得以保存，台灣土雞才能走出一條自己的路。

This in-depth reporting introduce the production and marketing structure and cultural elements of Taiwan native chicken industry by interviewing roles in the industrial chain, including the chicken farmers, wholesalers, authorities concerned etc. It is found that Taiwan chicken industry is divided into two markets: broiler and native chicken. Besides, there exist two types of business model of chicken farmers: contract farming and non-contract farming. In late 1980s, Taiwan government encouraged broiler industry developed into vertical integration model. Now over 90% broiler farmers are contract farming, they cooperating with enterprise, but native chicken farmers prefer to be non-contract farming. Recent years, however, Taiwan native chicken industry is facing more and more difficult challenge. There are both outer and inner factors. Outer factors are: 1.After Taiwan became the member of WTO, domestic market is forced to open for foreign chicken product. 2. The cost of importing fodder is increasing. Inner factors are: 1.The eating habits of Taiwanese changed into Western style, so the consumption of native chicken is decreasing. 2. Taiwan government plan to implement electrically operated slaughtering instead of slaughter by hand. Influenced by these factors, some native chicken farmers tend to join contract farming, though some are trying to develop alternative ways to raise chickens. These farmers are environment-friendly and pay more attention to animal rights. Now, the international crop price is marching higher and higher. Comparing with importing chicken, Taiwan chicken industry is less competitive. It is believed that Taiwan should build a reliable certification mechanism, also encourage consumers to support it, so that Taiwan can preserve unique native chicken culture.