清領與日治時期台灣烏龍茶產業的發展

Abstract

本文旨在研究日治時期台灣烏龍茶衰退的原因。茶葉，特別是烏龍茶，是清領時期臺灣最重要的產業，然而學界對其為何在日治時期逐漸沒落仍無深入探討。本文前半段首先梳理臺灣烏龍茶興起的背景與摻混造假的現象，並檢討過去文獻中關於烏龍茶衰退的論點，包括成本結構的變化、消費市場上的價格競爭、以及臺灣包種茶取代烏龍茶的說法。後半段則分別從需求面與供給面探討可能造成烏龍茶競爭力下滑的成因，我們認為過去關於烏龍茶式微的觀察可能不是真正的主因；宣傳行銷不力與消費者的所得效果造成市場需求下滑，而茶葉生產力下降和種稻利益上升則使得茶葉生產成本上升，同時提供了產業轉移的誘因，這些可能才是讓台灣烏龍茶逐漸衰退的原因。

This article investigates the reasons of declination of Taiwanese Oolong tea during Japanese Colonial period. Tea, especially Oolong tea, is the most important industry in Taiwan during Qing Dynasty; however, the academia has no further exploration into its fading in Japanese Colonial period. This article first summarizes the initial development and adulteration practices of Taiwanese Oolong tea. We also examine past arguments regarding the declination of Taiwanese Oolong tea, including the trend in cost structure, the price competition, and the production substitution with Pouchong tea. Subsequently, we discuss other possible rationales from both demand side and supply side. We believe that the observations from literature might not be the key elements for the declination of Taiwanese Oolong tea. Factors that may contribute to this declination are as below. The income effect on consumers and the advertising failure dragged the market demand. Meanwhile, the sinking productivity of tea and the growing profit in rice both lifted the production cost of tea, as well provided incentives for industrial shift in between.