台灣高功能纖維與紡織品研發佈局與戰略： 台灣富綢個案研究

Abstract

紡織產業屬於基礎民生工業；紡織品和紡織材料不但是日常生活必需品，也是其他產業或多或少需要應用到的基礎材料或配件，也是人類歷史文化的表現物品之一。 紡織產業的範圍相當地的廣泛，如果依照原料、產品、製程、管理和資訊等各面向的組合來細數紡織相關行業，相信應該可以超過15000種。完整的紡織產業如果依產品和關鍵製程來區分，主要將可以分成六大類：紗線業(textile yarn industry)、紡織纖維業(textile fiber industry)、染整業(textile dyeing , printing , and finishing industry)、織物和不織布業(textile fabric and nonwoven industry)、紡織終製品業(textile final product industry)以及相關之機電、化工與儀具機械業。 我們從台灣近年來的紡織產業可以有一個概略性的認知。大抵是在民國49年(1960年代)之前，紡織工業是以棉紡工業為上游體系，來支撐下游的織布、染整業。這樣的生產模式在人造纖維產業技術逐步開發後，漸漸轉型成為以人造纖維產業為上游體系，織布、染整及成衣為中下游體系，而正是依靠著人造纖維產業的蓬勃發展，台灣紡織業得以長時間居台灣出口外匯的重要角色。 台灣的紡織產業在技術上的不斷突破，加上紡織產業綜合研究所、紡拓會、工業技術研究院材料與化工研究所，三大紡織產業研發、設計與推廣單位的努力配合，將原本屬於勞力密集型產業的產業模式，脫胎換骨成為資本、技術密集型的產業，與國內高科技產業的技術交流，使得台灣紡織業不同於以往的落後於英、日等國，而今已經是世界紡織產業的先進大國，而這成果皆有賴紡織產業繼續的努力才能續保。 紡織纖維業為紡織產業鏈中最重要的一環，也是目前台灣紡織產業還得以生存的重要關鍵。本研究是透過分析紡織產業，了解台灣紡織業的現況和產業價值鏈；並就本論文個案公司所處的人造纖維產業進行競爭分析；並深入地對目前聚酯加工絲產業的主要獲利公司，包含宏益纖維、台灣富綢做研究探討。 本論文將探討在高度競爭的紡織產業中，如何採用品牌本體圖架構為主要研究方法，來研判競爭回應的可能性；找出直接競爭者、間接競爭者，甚至是潛在競爭者之間的差異；最後再以此作為永續經營的方針。

The textile industry is one of the fundamental household industries. Textile products and materials are not only daily necessities but also fundamental materials or accessories for other industries, not to mention one of the objects that people have been using to express themselves throughout the history. Thanks to the wide applications of textile industry, it is believed to have more than 15,000 industries that are more or less in connection with textiles, ranging from raw materials, products, manufacturing process, management to information. By product and crucial manufacturing process, the textile industry can be subdivided into 6 categories: textile yarn industry, textile fiber industry, textile dyeing, printing and finishing industry, textile fabric and nonwoven industry and final textile product industry in addition to the electric, chemical, instrument and mechanical industries that all play a part in the general textile industry. The general knowledge has been developed for the textile industry in Taiwan in recent years. Up to the 1960s, the system of textile industry started with the textile yarn industry as the very upstream that supported the weaving and dyeing industries at the downstream. With the development of artificial fiber manufacturing, such a production model gradually evolved into a system where the manufacturing of artificial fibers was the upstream that supported the weaving, dyeing and apparel industries at the downstream. The booming artificial fiber industry was what the textile industry of Taiwan relied on and developed into the important role in exporting and foreign exchange in Taiwan. Taiwan’s textile industry has over time evolved from the labor-intensive industrial model into capital and technology intensive one with the constant breakthroughs in technology and thanks to the combined efforts of Taiwan Textile Research Institute, Taiwan Textile Federation and the Material and Chemical Research Laboratories, ITRI. The intensified technological interactions with domestic high-tech industries have transformed the textile industry of Taiwan from what used to fall behind UK and Japan into today’s one of the advanced textile strongholds in the world, all of these owing to the constant and relentless hard work of the entire textile industry. The textile fiber industry is an indispensible part of the textile industry chain as well as the key to survival for the textile industry of Taiwan at present day. The purpose of this study was to develop the whole picture of the current status of Taiwan’s textile industry and the industrial value chain. An analysis of competitiveness was performed The artificial fiber manufacturing in which the company selected as the subject of the study is involved and an in-depth study was conducted on some of the profiting companies in the production of polyester textured yarns, including Hong Yilon and Taiwan Taffeta Fabric. This study was aimed to find out how to determine the possibility of competition response in the highly competitive textile industry using the brand triangle model as the research method; identify the difference among direct, indirect and even potential competitors; and finally develop a guideline for sustainable operations based on the results.