地方特色食物的構築與維繫：以關西仙草為例

Abstract

相較於化約個人功利與經濟效益的行銷管理領域，本研究乃藉由文化經濟取徑釐清地方特色食物的形成因素與發展過程，並辨認其中所蘊含的社會網絡和行動策略。本研究以「關西仙草」為研究個案，並以質性研究方法系統性探索地方特色食物的演變歷程。研究發現在仙草的傳統特質時期（1990年以前），消費社會將仙草定位為普遍性的藥草，多以冷品的形式受到大眾歡迎，關西地區亦在1980年代開始出現規模種植的情形。在仙草的積極改造創新時期（1991至2000年），透過公私營單位對仙草的投入，使仙草不僅從傳統家庭藥草，變成可標準化大量生產的冷品材料；也從過往只適合在夏季享用的食物，變成冬季也受消費者歡迎的熱飲品項。而在仙草的地方特色食物成形時期（2001年之後），關西地區的農會與業者同時採取供應鏈與延展地域策略，除了積極投入仙草產品的研究，亦利用地方食物節慶「關西仙草節」來改變在地消費者的身體習性並博得其認同。總體而言，地方特色食物的發展塑造與意義賦予並不是固定不變的過程，而是隨著行動者涉入時間與採取策略之不同而有所改變，其中積極生產與創造消費更是維繫地方特色食物的基石。

In contrast to the reduction of personal utility and economic benefits in the field of marketing management, this study clarified the factors that underlie the formation and development process of typical local foods, as well as identified the social network and action strategy involved. Based on the case study of “Guanxi Mesona,” this study used qualitative research methods to systematically explore the evolution process of typical local foods. As the study discovered, the consumer society had characterized Mesona as a common herb during the period of Mesona’s traditional property (before 1990). It was usually served as a cold food, which was well-received by the general public. Since the 1980s, large-scale plantation has begun in the Guanxi area. During the period of Mesona’s active transformation and innovation (1991 to 2000), not only did the traditional family herb become an ingredient for cold food that can be standardized for mass production, but what used to be consumers’ favorite summer treat also became a popular hot drink in the winter. During the formation period of Mesona as a typical local food (after 2001), Guanxi farmers’ association and merchants simultaneously adopted the supply chain strategy and extended territory strategy. In addition to the active commitments to Mesona product research, local food festivals like “Guanxi Mesona Festival” were also utilized to change local consumers’ health habits while obtaining their recognition. Overall, the development and significance of typical local foods do not follow a constant process. Instead, they are altered by differences in the actor’s time of involvement and adopted strategy. Among these factors, active production and consumption creation are especially the cornerstones that maintain typical local foods.