「創新的傳統」： 談臺灣茶與創意產業─誠品松菸書卷沏為例

Abstract

文化消費成為生活的一種方式，傳統產業透過創意行銷，活化並被賦予新價值。松山文創園區被文化局委以重任，商場空間內有誠品集團再現的「茶文化」案例，有助分析、反思創意產業。「文創」一詞的過度模糊，甚至在模稜兩可中不斷地被濫用與操作，產生了不少的弊端（如：文化挪用的爭議）。本研究檢視創意與傳統產業的關係，解構當代「茶」的文化性意義由來，即商家宣稱的「傳統」。研究發現「茶」的意義轉變，過去以生產為重心，如今儼然變成消費為核心，反映出市場機制對於社會環境的改變。「茶」作為貫穿古今的經濟作物，其變化，得以窺探臺灣產業的昔日與未來，解釋創意產業對農產品商品化的影響。結果發現創意產業有助市場區隔，但大多脫離不了傳統產業的根基；創意行銷手法加強了商業邏輯，增加「產銷距離減少的錯覺」，並模糊了生產過程；生產者獲得更好待遇，但中小型創意產業與消費者，在整個體系中才是被剝削的弱勢。此研究從茶產業出發，了解「文化」與「產業」間，競逐於不同世代的協商過程，即「傳統」是不斷「創新」的過程。因此，臺灣茶產業不斷異業結合與重組，不僅捲動地方的產業轉型與發展，也改變了地方的意象與內部的社會關係。

Creative industry worldwide has repackaged culture as a strategy of value production for a “traditional” commodity in the market. Nevertheless, the repackage of culture for value production has been controversial with a dispute between two opposite perceptions towards “tradition.” On one hand, people criticize that creative industry has commercialized culture by packaging “tradition” as a commodity. Consequently, they caution the loss of “authenticity” of culture if “tradition” is commercialized. On the contrary, other people claim that commercialization of tradition as an imperative strategy for sustaining a culture. They regard “authenticity” of culture is too ideal to keep if “tradition” cannot be repackaged as a commodity to sell in the market. Throughout this essay, instead of contesting “authenticity” of culture, I argue more attentions should be paid to the process of cultural “renovation.” Renovation therefore highlights culture as a dynamic process in the creative industry. I use the production and consumption of tea in Taiwan as my case study to demonstrate that “tradition” of tea culture has been in the ongoing “renovation”. The process of renovation of tea tradition, I argue, has become another mechanism to re-engineer a “cultural entrepreneurship” for making profit out from the fluidity of culture.