運用MCDM方法於紡織業新機能產品開發－以膠原蛋白胜肽紗線為例

Abstract

紡織業可以說是一種「候鳥行業」，哪邊的成本較低，客戶就往哪邊跑，而且是一種屬於量產，講求規模經濟的行業，但國內勞動力不足、工資上漲、新興國家紡織業崛起等因素導致國內紡織品出口逐年衰退，臺灣紡織產業的發展面臨重大考驗。 臺灣的紡織業是繼日本之後，一個新起的行業，1960到1980年是臺灣的強盛時期，自從新臺幣大幅升值以後（1985年匯率從40.5新臺幣兌1美元升到1992年24.765新臺幣兌1美元），臺灣的競爭力就日漸衰退，雖然後面有回貶到30新臺幣兌1美元，並逐漸趨於穩定，但中間過程已有多家的紡織廠倒閉，或選擇外移（例如：個案公司於1993年投資中國大陸山東省），留在臺灣的紡織廠有些仍苟延殘喘中，但有些卻極力想轉型，因大宗規格的產品，在價格上，已無法與進口紗或進口布競爭。因而有所謂的差異化產品出現於市場上，和大宗規格的紗或布做一明顯區分，例如包芯紗(core spun yarn)、竹節紗(slub yarn)等，近來更有所謂的「機能紗」出現，例如保暖紗、涼爽紗、遠紅外線紗等，但成功者乏善可陳，追究其原因，大多缺乏市場導向或是成本過高，致市場無法接受。 本研究選定將國內上下游作業垂直整合、專業分工的全方位服務導向公司—台元紡織股份有限公司為對象，探討該公司成功開發UMORFIL膠原蛋白胜肽紗的創新過程，並進行深入訪談與研究，將台元紡織股份有限公司開發膠原蛋白胜肽紗線的個案做成學術報告。本研究採用「市場構面」、「技術構面」、「財務構面」、「製造構面」及「環境構面」等五大構面分別進行探討，蒐集相關研究的新產品開發專案可行性準則，透過個案公司的訪談及模糊德爾菲法(fuzzy delphi method)，對新機能紡織品紗線開發專案之關鍵準則加以評選，使個案公司的新產品開發過程得以完整呈現。 透過本研究使用五大構面發現，台元紡織股份有限公司的新產品創新研發企劃之競爭策略、企業經營的內外部環境有其相互關係及影響。本研究之結果將給予臺灣紡織產業做為新產品開發之建議與參考，以提升新機能紡織品研發之成功機率及效率。

Textile industry is also called “Migratory industry”, which provides affordable commodity products to satisfy the market demand. Textile industry is also one of the traditional industries that belongs to mass production industry, indicating that the bigger the scale is, the more competitive the market is. However, the textile industry is now facing challenge in Taiwan as the export of textile is decreasing annually. This is because of the internal labor shortage, higher labor salary and new textile factories in new developing countries that compete with the Taiwanese textile industry. Although Textile industry in Taiwan had been the most competitive in the world during 1960~1980, New Taiwan Dollar has appreciated significantly (exchange rage between USD and NTD is 40.5 of 1985 shift to 24.765 of 1992.), decreasing the competitive advantage of Taiwan textile industry. When the exchange rate depreciated to around 30 afterwards, many textile factories went bankrupt while some chose to relocate to other cities. Existing factories in Taiwan tried to survive and attempted to change business model. It is difficult to compete the standard spec products with foreign vendors, therefore the products needed to be different, such as core spun yarn or slub yarn. Recently, more “functional fiber or yarn” is in the market, such as heat-generated yarn, cool-feeling yarn or far infrared yarn, but few led to success due to lack of market orientation or high cost. Our research focuses on TAI YUEN TEXTILE CO., LTD, a company of upstream and downstream integration and specialization service, to investigate on the innovative procedure of UMORFIL collagen peptide yarn with detailed interview and study. This research is based on 5 perspectives as “Market”, “Technology”, “Financial”, “Manufacturing” and “Environment”, in which we collected related criterias of new product development, through case study company interview and fuzzy Delphi method to select critical successful factors of new functional textile yarn development during new product R&D procedure. We discovered that competitive strategy and internal/external environment of enterprise show correlation. This study also will provide reference and suggestion of new product development in Taiwan textile industry, to heighten the successful percentage and efficiency of new functional textiles development.